a friend of mine, Sadka, who lives in Europe is unable to find hard cast bullets for bear protection, which I?m assuming is due to environmental laws. Any suggestions for 10mm loading?s for that part of the world? I would think something like LeHigh Defense Xtreme Penetrator, or other copper solids would be available there, but don?t know
Thanks
Hello everyone and thanks for your assistance 😊
Much of that hinges on ITAR as to what can be exported and to where it can exported to.
But, of course, their local environmental laws may also come into play.
Thanks Sadka, please give the group a bit of insight on yourself, location, and aspersions as far as bear protection, as well as your desire and hope to start reloading 10mm
Hello Ken, Im based in Bulgaria.Working as sales manager at big company producer of ethanol.I love nature and often hike up in the mountains together with my wife.The area where my cabin is full of European brown bears and we see them while hiking.After close encounter with mother bear and cub decided to buy 10 mm G20 as Im not revolver guy.However 10 mm is very rare and unknown cartridge in our country. Ammo is scarce and therefore the inly options we have are different brands of weak FMJs like Federal, S&b, PPU or CC Blazer.I know that reloading would be a good solution for me but unfortunately i only managed to find some brass, fmj and jhp bullets in the European sites.No hardcast , no extreme penetrators etc.etc.That made me think that maybe the most working for the time being is to load hot some 180/200 gr fmjs as they penetrate way better than expanding bulets.I know only one guy who is competitive shooter reloading for 40 S&w. I believe he would be willing to help me at the very beginning.If you have any useful tips or suggestions regarding reloading or other solutions please let me know. I will appreciate your help.
Can you find a mold and cast your own?
I know many people here in the US get old wheelweights and sinkers and other recycled materials to make their own.
I'm not exactly sure what to add to the mixture to make hardcast.
I think TIN. But am unsure of the exact amounts.
I recently bought a LEE brand, but am not sure what may be available there. But, look for .401" bullet molds. Around 175 to 200 gr.
Yes, I already got single reloading press and RCBS brabded molds but I don't know if I can cast my own bulets.
I need to mention also that my handgun is G20 with OEM barrel.
Quote from: Sadka on July 22 2022 01:20:22 PM MDT
Yes, I already got single reloading press and RCBS brabded molds but I don't know if I can cast my own bulets.
If you can get lead, you can cast your own bullets.
As I mentioned, a lot of people start with used wheelweights. You can't use the zinc or steel wheelweights. They need to be the lead kind.
Here's a few starter hints that may help.
If you have a new mold that has never been used. Get a match, strike it, and let the smoke coat the inside surfaces in the mold around the bullet. The carbon coating wont' allow your lead to stick in the mold.
Also, put the mold on top of the melting pot or heat. Allow it to heat up with the lead. This helps get the mold to the proper temp. If the mold is too cold, will cause the lead to be wrinkly because it cools off too fast before being able to properly and completely fill the bullet mold.
Don't get the hot lead wet. Keep water away from it. Hot lead and water will cause a vapor explosion from steam. You don't want that. I always just let me lead air cool.
Powder coating is easy. But a little messy. You start with about a teaspoon of powder and put it in a butter bowl or other plastic bowl. Then you put the bullets down into the bowl and put the lid on and then shake and let the bullets go all around inside of the bowl. This gets static built up and it sticks to the bullets.
Then bake at the temp for the allowed time. I think it's around 400* Fahrenheit for 15 to 20 minutes in a small toaster oven.
Sounds good but at the same time little bit complicated for me as I don't have mentor to teach me how to do it 🙂
I was wondering if you know something about berry's branded bullets? Are they good quality and if they can be loaded up to 1200 fps. Also can I use S&b brass for preparing hot FMJs.How do you figure out which FMJ is made out of soft lead or hard?
Do you know how to melt ice and pour water?
It's really about the same concept.
berry's bullets are plated and have no problems to 1200 fps.
Most fmj is made from soft lead.
S&B brass is good.
I know how to melt ice and pour water ;). First of all I need to learn how to hand reload properly. Later on I might try to cast my own bulets too.My wish is to try prepare a box of FMJs first, i would really appreciate your help me about the details I don't know.For instance:
1. How tight to crimp?
2. When the bullet length is 1250- 1255 or 1260
3. Can I pull out the bullet of a S&B factory ball ammo,remove the original powder and charge it with my own burning powder increasing the velocity up to 1200 fps?
My replies in red
Quote from: Sadka on July 22 2022 02:18:30 PM MDT
I know how to melt ice and pour water ;). First of all I need to learn how to hand reload properly. Later on I might try to cast my own bulets too.My wish is to try prepare a box of FMJs first, i would really appreciate your help me about the details I don't know.For instance:
That makes sense. Don't overwhelm yourself and start out one step at a time.
1. How tight to crimp?
I like a very light crimp. It doesn't take a lot to crimp brass with the proper set of dies. I only exert maybe about 2 lbs of force on the handle of my press.
2. When the bullet length is 1250- 1255 or 1260
You need a set of calipers to measure the length. You start at the base of the bullet near the primer and measure the whole bullet out to the end of it.
You can use either a digital caliper or an old needle analog dial. They both work fine as long as they're properly zeroed. Most of our load data is measured in inches. But, you can do a little math and convert it to metric. But, the numbers that you'll find on US sites with load data, will be in inches.
The measurements that you listed above, you omitted the decimal point. 1.250" (when converted to MM is 31.75) or 1.255" (31.87) or, 1.260" (32mm)
3. Can I pull out the bullet of a S&B factory ball ammo,remove the original powder and charge it with my own burning powder increasing the velocity up to 1200 fps?
No. Don't even attempt that.
Evening Sadka, until you can get your reloading / casting process up and running, are you able to secure a 12 gauge shotgun and slugs? If you and your wife are going to be around that kind of bear population, with the possibility of cubs being around, you should be well armed, also, don?t forget bear spray. Please keep me posted on your progress
Ken
Thanks for your assistance John.Its all clear for me .Excuse my English please I probably didn't make myself clear.I was asking in which cases the bullet should be seated at 1255 length or 1260.I noticed that the bullet length could vary between 1250 and 1260.
Am i wrong about it?
I always carry a can of bear spray with me but Im not allowed to carry shotgun being in the mountain ( although i have been licensed hunter for 2 years now)
I will keep you posted about my first attempts for
reloading.
Also, there would almost have to be some small companies like our Underwood in the states that offer hotter hunting ammo. I would assume there are plenty of hunters in your neck of the woods, and many probably do not reload. I?m not sure of the shipping laws in Europe, but there has to be places that offer this type of ammo
Even if I find some hot ammo in Germany or In the Netherlands.Im not allowed to buy it online.Online deliveries are considered illegal :'(
Quote from: Sadka on July 22 2022 02:32:36 PM MDT
Thanks for your assistance John.Its all clear for me .Excuse my English please I probably didn't make myself clear.I was asking in which cases the bullet should be seated at 1255 length or 1260.I noticed that the bullet length could vary between 1250 and 1260.
Am i wrong about it?
Do not apologize for your English. It's fine.
When seating a bullet, it's generally better to seat it at whatever the published data calls for. That's the seating depth that has been tested.
There are maximum lengths that you can make. This is determined from a lot of factors like the shape of the bullet. The gunpowder that you are using, and the pressures involved with everything. Everything depends on everything else.
There will also be a point where you don't want to seat a long bullet deeper too, because that may compress the gun powder when the bullet goes down inside of the brass case, and that can cause pressure spikes, and ultimately blow up the gun if it's too bad. So, making ammunition does have inherent dangers and you'd need to be careful to make them properly.
But, I'll give you an example from this page here:
https://www.10mm-firearms.com/reloading-10mm-ammo/10mm-load-data-from-over-the-years/
10mm Auto
Speer 180 gr PHP bullet
10.5 gr AA#7 powder
1.250" cartridge overall length (COL)In the recipe above, the bullet and the cartridge overall length measured from end to end is 1.250"
When making a bullet from a specific recipe, it's important that you don't change anything about it.
I don't want to get into advanced hypothetical things, but this is generally the easiest answer for someone who is just beginning to reload.
Sadka, like I had mentioned earlier when we spoke, just be careful, and hopefully find a mentor that?s been reloading for awhile. I?m basically saying you have to respect what your working with. Reloading is a great hobby, but, if you get sloppy, it will inevitably bite you. a double powder charge in any caliber will cause a kaboom, but in 10mm, it?ll be kaboom city. The bottom line, built in some fail safes into your process, and do it the same way every time. It?s a fun and rewarding hobby, you just have to watch your stuff. I do all my 10mm reloading on a single stage Rock Chucker press, weighing each charge individually, the end product, match grade ammo that I built
Enjoy your new hobby and be safe
Ken
Thanks for the detailed and clear explanation John.Congratulations on your English and the way you express yourself.Obviosly you are very intelligent and clever person.By the way Im self educated in English :D.It was pleasure chatting with you tonight.Im going to bed now. Have a good day or evening and stay in touch please :) .
Anyone that can teach themselves English (or any language that isn't their native tongue) are smart.
It's been nice meeting and speaking with you as well sir.
Best of luck to you.
As for the ability to secure a shotgun and slugs, is that a possibility? Also, you should find out when cubs are around with momma bear and avoid hiking certain areas at those times?unless of course you are carrying a some FIM-92 Stingers that is😀
Kenk, once a (black bear) sow has cubs, they often stay with them for the biggest part of a year and a half. So, while your thought was a good suggestion, it's not really feasible to stay out of the woods until they're grown and get away from mom.
I also think he commented earlier that he can't use a shotgun.
Although that would be a great defensive tool. And to be honest, is my primary carry when I check my trail cams.
Thanks John, I didn?t realize that about the cubs, kinda blows that idea. As for the no shotguns allowed, and no mail order ammunition, I makes me realize how good we still have it. I?m sure the ding dongs in Washington are working on that one as we speak
Yeah, they are.
Consider turning a copper solid on a lathe? Federal makes a good Jacketed 200 grain soft point that would work well!
what is wrong with just using a 200 gr. FMJ flat nosed bullet? I'm sure the copper (guiding metal) jacket is as hard as "hard cast" lead and will not deform and penetrate as deep as the same weight "hard cast" bullet. I've dug many out of dirt/rock backstops that almost look like they could be loaded again.
I really hope 200 gr FMJ would work because I don't see any other options for now .