In regard to sizing dies with the titanium nitride, is lubing the cases still beneficial, even if not necessary. Or would that simply be madness?
Nitride is a surface treatment, unlike a full metallic insert solution, such as carbide. Nitride is equally as hard, but shallow. Lube for straight wall cases is not supposed to be needed. I tried them (Hornady, IIRC) when they were new. They seemed fine at first, but started slowing down and eventually began galling cases (within 100 cycles). Probably 2-3K cycles total. I cleaned them (as suggested) between sessions. They were great, until they weren't. Returned for a refund. I wouldn't turn them down if they were free, but I won't buy them again. I have a .45ACP carbide set I'm about to retire, after 60K+ cycles (probably closer to 100K, but I lost count).
What brand(s) of sizing die do you have that doesn't gall the brass cases?
Quote from: REDLINE on July 28 2012 05:02:51 PM MDT
What brand(s) of sizing die do you have that doesn't gall the brass cases?
Nearly anyones CARBIDE is my first choice, but only because the ability to eliminate the lubing step.... take that out of the picture and ANY properly made die will work fine.
I prefer Redding, RCBS, LYMAN, HORNADY and DILLION.
CW
Quote from: REDLINE on July 28 2012 05:02:51 PM MDT
What brand(s) of sizing die do you have that doesn't gall the brass cases?
All of them. They get retired if they do. A new die that galls gets returned. Clean brass in, clean brass out. No striations (stripes). New dies need to be cleaned before use (VERY important). Some may get a polishing. I would polish the .45 die, but it's already at maximum acceptable diameter (for me). It's paid for itself many times, so no loss.
Imperial sizing wax always gets used. It helps everything go smoother.
Quote from: sqlbullet on July 28 2012 09:15:17 PM MDT
Imperial sizing wax always gets used. It helps everything go smoother.
Do you have a prefered method of applying it? Anything outside the norm?
Quote from: sqlbullet on July 28 2012 09:15:17 PM MDT
Imperial sizing wax always gets used. It helps everything go smoother.
It is VERY good and I also use it, but mostly for reforming cases or military brass.
You can apply with fingers or with a pad. It comes in a tin.
CW
Quote from: cwlongshot on July 29 2012 03:39:44 AM MDT
Quote from: sqlbullet on July 28 2012 09:15:17 PM MDT
Imperial sizing wax always gets used. It helps everything go smoother.
It is VERY good and I also use it, but mostly for reforming cases or military brass.
CW
I've found Dillon Case Lube to work very well when running surplus Lake City brass (7.62) through small based RCBS dies. Mixture of denatured alcohol and lanolin in a spray pump bottle. The brass had been fired in machine guns with 'generous' chambers. ;D
Quote from: EdMc on July 29 2012 07:23:45 AM MDT
Quote from: cwlongshot on July 29 2012 03:39:44 AM MDT
Quote from: sqlbullet on July 28 2012 09:15:17 PM MDT
Imperial sizing wax always gets used. It helps everything go smoother.
It is VERY good and I also use it, but mostly for reforming cases or military brass.
CW
Great minds my friend... Dillon is my main lube. ;) ;D
CW
I've found Dillon Case Lube to work very well when running surplus Lake City brass (7.62) through small based RCBS dies. Mixture of denatured alcohol and lanolin in a spray pump bottle. The brass had been fired in machine guns with 'generous' chambers. ;D
I rub a tiny amount on my fingers and then on 2-3 cases. Then I size 6-7. You can feel when the wax starts to wear off the die. Then I do another case or two.
I have also used the RCBS water based lube on a pad, and Hornady One Shot.
I never have issues with 10mm, but when resizing 30-06 Imperial is the only lube that I have never had a stuck case with.
The RCBS lube that came with the kit didn't work with the LC and small based dies......Hornady One Shot in the aerosol can worked with lots of effort, the pump version didn't work well at all. Never used Imperial Wax but the Dillon lube makes it almost as easy as any other case I've sized. You might want to try it on the 30/06.......just lay the casings on a large baking sheet, spray, roll them around and wait about 5 minutes. I'm pretty lazy.. ;D
Quote from: sqlbullet on July 30 2012 07:53:31 AM MDT
I rub a tiny amount on my fingers and then on 2-3 cases. Then I size 6-7. You can feel when the wax starts to wear off the die. Then I do another case or two.
I have also used the RCBS water based lube on a pad, and Hornady One Shot.
I never have issues with 10mm, but when resizing 30-06 Imperial is the only lube that I have never had a stuck case with.
Good to know. Thanks for elaborating!
I just finished preping 1K of various brands of used brass (FC, NORMA, Winchester, Hornady, HMR) Seperated by make.
First all were polished in corncob media, little lighter fluid and cut up dryer sheets.
Second was a "Pass Thru" sizing thru the LEE FCD.
Third was deprimimed using the RCBS Carbide sizer.
Fourth was a trip in the expander die and primer pockets cleaned.
They are ready for primers and loading! ;D
Yes these methods are slower than progressive operations but the benefits of uniformity are my rewards.
Quote from: The_Shadow on August 02 2012 05:09:57 PM MDT
I just finished preping 1K of various brands of used brass (FC, NORMA, Winchester, Hornady, HMR) Seperated by make.
First all were polished in corncob media, little lighter fluid and cut up dryer sheets.
Okay, you got me. I've never heard of using lighter fluid and 'Bounce' sheets?
The lighter fluid (charcoal lighterI is a solvent with low evaporation below 100 degrees to clean the soot and actually helps polishing, maybe a tea spoon in small tumbler. The dryer sheets(used, I use two sheets cut in 1" squares) these actually clean the media as they collect and hold the dust and dirt. Life is good! ;D
+1 for dryer sheets. Just cut them into little squares.
Tips and tricks from the pros. Couldn't get any better than that.
Strips of paper towel works too (in place of dryer sheets).