First off Hello !
New to 10mm but have been shooting Underwood Ammo exclusively , but as with everything else they are raising prices . Looking into reloading my own since I do my rifle loads on my Dillon 550B all I gotta do is buy the conversion parts . I'd like to duplicate their loads as much as I can if possible ?
Thanks !
Manufacturer's are usually reluctant to tell you their recipes. Plus they may even use a proprietary powder you cannot even obtain.
The Shadow has written up pull-down reports for most of Underwoods loads. The powders I have taken note of are 800X, Longshot and Lovex D037-01. Of those, Longshot has been the easiest for me to procure.
Browse through the pull-downs sub-forum and you will find all the data you want.
As I've mentioned before, kudos to Shadow for all the work.
Some of my best loads are copied from the pull-downs then adjusted for my gun.
Thanks !
hi Iam still new to loading ,remember start at minimum levels and go up 5.gens at a time and checking for sings of over pressure, ie..bulged cases (ecspicially for glocks)flattened primers have fun and be safe
Quote from: halfglocked on November 24 2015 06:12:25 AM MST
hi Iam still new to loading ,remember start at minimum levels and go up 5.gens at a time and checking for sings of over pressure, ie..bulged cases (ecspicially for glocks)flattened primers have fun and be safe
0.5 grains, if that's what you meant, is quite a long step for working up loads, especially when approaching max. 0.2 gr. is the standard with handgun loads. Using a "Glock bulge" can be very misleading, and often incorrect if used as a pressure indicator. Unsupported, or poorly supported chambers, such OEM Glock, will "bulge" long before max. pressure is reached. It is, however, important to recognize the difference between a "bulge" and a "smile" (frown). Either of these can occur well below maximum pressure. Much depends on the combination of components and assembly process, and the ability to identify which component or process is causing an indicator. Often, it isn't specifically the powder charge, but simply a poor combination or process.
I load in .2 grain increments always.
If you are going to load to max, you need a chronograph. Velocity will tell you when you are getting into dangerous territory. Next would be careful, uniform case head measurements. In general I ignore primers anymore as the cup material can vary widely from lot to lot. I will get primers that look brand new except for the FP strike, and then in the next loaded lot I will get primers that are quite flat. Same powder lot, same load, same brass, same projectile and same velocity. Since I know nothing else changed, I can only assume that the primer cups were softer.
COAL is also critical to watch. Remember P1V1 = P2V2. So, if you load to a shorter overall length, you are decreasing V, and P has to go up. No way around it. Case neck tension, if loose, can change your COAL on the fly, with catastrophic results.