Probably been discussed thousands of times, so please excuse my ignorance.
With so many 10mm ammo choices, how can I make sense of what best for a particular situation? What is that application for them?
I can understand the standard 180gr. FMJ for practice and plinking, but what about those 220 gr. hard cast heavy loads, and those ultra light 115r. JHP? They range from 1200 to 1700 fps. I'm just looking for a basic understanding on the intended use for each round.
I am by no means an expert but the uses I see would be as follows:
220gr hardcast: potentially used for hunting or large animal defense. ie bears, hogs etc.
180gr: FMJ for a practice load if you also carry HP's for defense against 2 or 4 legged threats.
150gr: Same uses as the 180gr class. Can be a little softer recoiling.
115Gr hyper velocity: the only practical use I can see for this kind of a load would be some kind of shooting competition that involves long range. The high velocity should yield a flatter trajectory and still meet power factor requirements for certain sanctioning bodies.
220 - Poking a .400" hole very deep.
180-200 JHP - Poking a .400"-.700" hole about 15"-20" deep.
155-175 JHP - Poking a .400-.750" hole 10"-16" deep
135-155 JHP - Jagged crater but probably less than 12" deep
Under 135 - Probably best for varmint or specialty shooting. Solid penetrators may defeat some body armor.
These are pretty generic. But, the general rule is all else equal a heavier bullet will go deeper, but may not have the energy budget to expand alot.
I would agree with SQLBullet
205 gr - 220 gr - Poking a .400" hole very deep, bone crushing. (Anything heavier tends to take up too much powder space and velocity is not optimised.
180-200 JHP - Poking a .400"-.700" hole about 15"-20" deep. (Mild to wild can cover many applications to include self defense and woods protection and colder climate uses)
180-200 FMJ/FMC/cast - Poking a .400" hole about 18"-26" deep. (extreme target like pins and steel)
155-175 JHP - Poking a .400-.750" hole 10"-16" deep (good self defense useage can be drive @ good velocities)
155-175 Cast - good target play and for building proficiency (cheaper practice)
135-155 JHP - Jagged crater but probably less than 12" deep (Close quarters defensive use with limited over penetrations)
SCHP Bullets like Lehigh Defense and Barnes (solid brass or copper projectiles can be effective self defense or hunting where LEAD is prohibited)
Under 135 - HYPER VELOCITY Probably best for varmint or specialty shooting. Solid penetrators may defeat some body armor. (Some can have effective Self Defense uses, however cost makes them more of a gimmick round.)
Your needs and requirements may not be the same as others... ::)
I shoot only DoubleTap Nosler JHP's in my 10mm 1911, with three different bullet weights (150gr, 180gr, and 200gr) alternating in each magazine. All are essentially full-spec 10mm. I use the different bullet weights because I like to hedge my bets.
Kinda like alternating slugs and buckshot in a 12 gauge pump.
IMO, For dummies breaks down to 3 choices :)
target
carry
atomic
but I mostly carry at 175 Win ST's and 200 xtps/nosler in woods
Well, pdp, you did it now :o . Actually great question as there are a lot of excellent choices in the 10mm. I will agree with SQLBullet and Shadow.
For my own opinion only, for self defense I like (no order);
- Underwood 140 gr. Controlled Fracturing Hollow Point
- Underwood 165 gr. Gold Dot
- DoubleTap 155 gr. TAC XP
- Underwood or Hornady 180 gr. XTP - tnoudoors9 showed JUST how impressive this round is in his testing on Youtube
- Underwood 115 gr. Extreme Defender (NOT the Penetrator - which is better for hunting I think)
- Atomic 180 gr. HEX
Pat
Quote from: Mike_Fontenot on December 15 2015 02:26:58 PM MST
I shoot only DoubleTap Nosler JHP's in my 10mm 1911, with three different bullet weights (150gr, 180gr, and 200gr) alternating in each magazine. All are essentially full-spec 10mm. I use the different bullet weights because I like to hedge my bets.
Do you change recoil springs between those two extremes?
Quote from: Reverendpdp on December 15 2015 04:53:40 PM MST
Quote from: Mike_Fontenot on December 15 2015 02:26:58 PM MST
I shoot only DoubleTap Nosler JHP's in my 10mm 1911, with three different bullet weights (150gr, 180gr, and 200gr) alternating in each magazine. All are essentially full-spec 10mm. I use the different bullet weights because I like to hedge my bets.
Do you change recoil springs between those two extremes?
No perceptible difference in recoil ... the energy is loaded higher for the lighter bullets, so momentum is about the same. I use a 20lb recoil spring (stock is 18.5 on the Kimber 10mm) ... 18.5 cycled fine, but I finally upped it a bit when I started seeing some signs of battering from the full-spec loads.
Quote from: The_Shadow on December 15 2015 01:40:54 PM MST
I would agree with SQLBullet
205 gr - 220 gr - Poking a .400" hole very deep, bone crushing. (Anything heavier tends to take up too much powder space and velocity is not optimised.
180-200 JHP - Poking a .400"-.700" hole about 15"-20" deep. (Mild to wild can cover many applications to include self defense and woods protection and colder climate uses)
180-200 FMJ/FMC/cast - Poking a .400" hole about 18"-26" deep. (extreme target like pins and steel)
155-175 JHP - Poking a .400-.750" hole 10"-16" deep (good self defense useage can be drive @ good velocities)
155-175 Cast - good target play and for building proficiency (cheaper practice)
135-155 JHP - Jagged crater but probably less than 12" deep (Close quarters defensive use with limited over penetrations)
SCHP Bullets like Lehigh Defense and Barnes (solid brass or copper projectiles can be effective self defense or hunting where LEAD is prohibited)
Under 135 - HYPER VELOCITY Probably best for varmint or specialty shooting. Solid penetrators may defeat some body armor. (Some can have effective Self Defense uses, however cost makes them more of a gimmick round.)
Your needs and requirements may not be the same as others... ::)
^^^^^As succinct and generally accurate overview of 10mm ammo found anywhere.
Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful and I appreciate you for taking the time to post such excellent info. Now I don't feel so dumb. 8)
Being a FNG, I deeply appreciate the existence of this thread. LoL
Being thinking of bulk ordering some Underwood after testing some out and figured it was still at the top.
Now if we could take this one step further... spring selection for these different loads.
Heavy springs for heavy loads?
Lighter springs for lighter loads?
Quote from: Reverendpdp on December 31 2015 02:09:17 PM MST
Now if we could take this one step further... spring selection for these different loads.
Heavy springs for heavy loads?
Lighter springs for lighter loads?
No, a properly sprung 10mm Auto pistol will drop "FBI Lite" neatly at your feet. The "full house" loads will jump a good three feet from the ejection port.
Quote from: Captain O on December 31 2015 03:11:17 PM MST
No, a properly sprung 10mm Auto pistol will drop "FBI Lite" neatly at your feet. The "full house" loads will jump a good three feet from the ejection port.
My Kimber Eclipse throws them a LONG way ... maybe around 20 feet or so. Doesn't seem to vary noticeably with load, springs, flat firing-pin stop, ... . I've given up worrying about it.
Quote from: Reverendpdp on December 31 2015 02:09:17 PM MST
Now if we could take this one step further... spring selection for these different loads.
Heavy springs for heavy loads?
Lighter springs for lighter loads?
Idea....shoot your guns first with all the loads before getting new springs..my g40 shoots everything like a sewing machine with stock spring.it is right now stripped apart and being ceracoted...gonna be as good looking as it is shooting!
The reason I ask is because a Tanfoglio I'm considering comes with 3 different spring weights...
This is somewhat common in high end target pistols. Guys may shoot really light loads for bullseye style shooting that may not cycle a gun with a "standard" weight recoil spring.
Until recently, I stayed with the stock recoil spring (18.5 lb) in my Kimber Eclipse, and it functioned fine with full-spec ammo ... Kimber just recommended changing the spring more often than the standard interval for medium-power ammo. But I started to notice some battering, and since then I've been using the next step up (20 lb). Still shoots the full-spec stuff fine. I shoot only the full-spec ammo (DoubleTaps, of various weights), and so I don't know if milder rounds will cycle OK or not.