In my shooting career it has never ceased to amaze me that one area of passionate/highly-opinionated contention with many shooters is their choice of lubricant for their weapons. I wondered why no one had made a breakthrough discovery, until now. This article is impressive and seems to have the facts to back up the claim.
Enjoy!
[size=78%]http://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2016/02/10/us-army-develops-integral-dry-lubricant-replace-clp/ (http://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2016/02/10/us-army-develops-integral-dry-lubricant-replace-clp/)[/size]
I wonder what it is....a POC on a graphene based boundary coating would be cool, and the journals seem to indicate this would be an application for that technology.
I thought this was about condoms.
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The US Army's Armament Research, Development, and Engineering Center (ARDEC) has developed an integral surface treatment for infantry small arms that could augment or supplant the existing applicated Cleaning, Lubricating, Preserving (CLP) lubricant on small arms components. The new lubricant is applied during the manufacturing of small arms and promises a permanent solution for weapons lubrication and environmental resistance.
When the military first issued the M16 they claimed it didn't need to be cleaned. Most people familiar with the M16's history knows what happened. Now they want to put some miracle coating on the guns. I'll stick with the old tried and true good old fashion "oil."
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That Ion Bond stuff on my Para Hunter is pretty good stuff.
But you still need oil
Actually colt said they were self cleaning, not that you didn't need to clean them. The statement was accurate, but MIS-understood
And this is a huge leap forward in boundary protection of materials that operate against each other. It is not a replacement for oil.
Having been in the military and having weapons inspected on a regular basis we had to use the supplied gun oil or else! Later serving in s desert environment ( I'm a Brit who served in a elite regiment) I quickly learned that oil just attracts sand, dust etc. so the solution was to clean and remove as much oil as possible. I dunno about a M16, I only every fired one once, but the AK 47 was my weapon of choice. It never failed even after been covered in fine sand. Of course I kept it covered as much as possible. We ALWAYS carried all weapons cocked and locked. That included in our quarters. I'm still around and it worked for me. I of course would not recommend any of this to the average gun user.
But I'm more than interested in dry lubes. The one I have been trying is inexpensive, Master Blaster Dry Lube. I believe it is PTFE based. PTFE has a high melting point and is very slippery. I have used it in a marine environment and it works very well. Salt loves to stick to oil based. Products, but not to this dry lube. Of course it's not corrosion resistant so regular cleaning with Frog Lube ( US Navy seals use this ) and wiping off as much as possible is my cleaning regime. Not for everybody, but so far good for me.
I like to run a gun "wet" during it's first 500 rounds of "break-in". Then I break it down, clean it completely back to like "new". I oil or grease each part according to the rule (grease for slide, oil for turn). I apply lube VERY sparingly, and then wipe off all I can. When I am done, the gun should not be oily, but I know lube is there.
If at this point the gun won't run in this "dry" state, it is time to find out what is wrong.
You all have covered a lot in this already, but lubes don't need to be expensive to work on the average semi automatic firearm. They just need to be clean and some oil or lube...ammo needs to burn clean otherwise that will foul or gum things up.
If however you are machine gun kelly then you may require more stringent properties for the long haul.
Lube need to prevent rust first and foremost if you firearm is prone to rust.
The gun should run with minimal oil or lube to prevent metal to metal contact but many of today's firearms are being coated to prevent rust and allow long extended use periods between cleaning.
Don't beat me up on this one but this is another thing Glock has gotten right, their guns are made in such a way the the barrels, slides run with minimal contact and clearances leaving room where carbon foul, dirt and debris are cycled past and allow the weapon to continue to work.
In the early Vietnam years the AR's had issues because the ammo was leaving a gummy residue in the harsh environment of the jungle, after the smokeless powder was replaced it made a great deal of difference in reliability over time.
Quote from: The_Shadow on April 07 2016 08:47:29 AM MDT
You all have covered a lot in this already, but lubes don't need to be expensive to work on the average semi automatic firearm. They just need to be clean and some oil or lube...ammo needs to burn clean otherwise that will foul or gum things up.
If however you are machine gun kelly then you may require more stringent properties for the long haul.
Lube need to prevent rust first and foremost if you firearm is prone to rust.
The gun should run with minimal oil or lube to prevent metal to metal contact but many of today's firearms are being coated to prevent rust and allow long extended use periods between cleaning.
Don't beat me up on this one but this is another thing Glock has gotten right, their guns are made in such a way the the barrels, slides run with minimal contact and clearances leaving room where carbon foul, dirt and debris are cycled past and allow the weapon to continue to work.
In the early Vietnam years the AR's had issues because the ammo was leaving a gummy residue in the harsh environment of the jungle, after the smokeless powder was replaced it made a great deal of difference in reliability over time.
Glocks are extremely reliable weapons. I was told of one test where many thousands of rounds were shot in an automatic shooting rig. A couple of stovepipe were encountered and the weapon shot them out with the following round. I imagine one of the reasons for their amazing reliability is the number of parts in a Glock. I think it is just 30 excluding the magazine. It's a 10mm for me.
Quote from: Bazzer on April 06 2016 11:17:58 PM MDT
... so regular cleaning with Frog Lube ( US Navy seals use this ) and wiping off as much as possible is my cleaning regime. Not for everybody, but so far good for me.
http://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2016/02/21/froglube-is-probably-made-from-coconut-oil-not-frogs/
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Quote from: Bazzer on April 07 2016 10:19:47 PM MDT
A couple of stovepipe were encountered and the weapon shot them out with the following round.
How would this happen? A stovepipe would hold the slide out of battery, which would prevent the gun from firing until it was manually cleared.
I don't know what your definition of a stove pipe is, but for me it's when a round fires with a bad or two low powder charge, the weapon cycles but the round is left in the barrel. Nothing to do with firing out of battery
I'm with sqlbullet. That's not what I was thought that a stovepipe was.
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A stovepipe is a type of failure to eject that results in the extracted case stuck in the action partially ejected but sticking up like a "stove pipe".
(http://truthaboutguns-zippykid.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Vertical-stovepipe-courtesy-modernserviceweapons.com_.jpg)
When this type of failure occurs, the gun must be manually cleared since a new round is not fully chambered.
A bad or low powder charge is a "squib load". Squib loads differ from "light loads" in that with a true squib the bullet stays in the barrel as a bore obstruction. Firing a subsequent round will NOT clear the bore, but will result in a barrel shaped something like this:
(http://www.thegunzone.com/glock/images/glock-losa2.jpg)
It also will likely result in injury to the shooter. If good safety gear is worn, the injury will be limited to bruises and maybe some stitches.
Quote from: Bazzer on April 08 2016 10:28:08 AM MDT
I don't know what your definition of a stove pipe is, but for me it's when a round fires with a bad or two low powder charge, the weapon cycles but the round is left in the barrel. Nothing to do with firing out of battery
A recoil operated semi-auto pistol will not cycle a squib load. It can't. The action must be cycled manually. A blow-back action might, if the load isn't too light, but almost always, if there's enough gas to cycle the action, there's more than enough to exit a bullet. D/A revolvers are the most dangerous (especially during rapid fire drills), as cartridge performance plays no part in action cycling. If a pistol fires out of battery, the pistol is broken (before and after), not the ammo.
Yes the stovepipe, which is a case failing to eject from the weapon ejection port creating a "stovepipe" look, actually holds the slide out of battery and thus prevents the weapon from firing. This is just as pictured in Sqlbullets photo.
A "squib" load is when there is not enough powder / velocity for the fired bullet to sxit the barrel. This creates a dangerous situation.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Firearm_malfunction
Stove Pipe (in an AR)
(https://s16-us2.ixquick.com/cgi-bin/serveimage?url=http:%2F%2Fwww.shootingillustrated.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2011%2F09%2F2-354x200.jpg&sp=7dbe24c4949441016b46efbd421e6fda)
I stand corrected!
Fly fishing guide. Archery is a passion. Shooting Elite E35 with VAP's I like to shoot in Northern California club comps in the bowhunter freestyle as a master senior.