BTDT early on with mine. Hopefully he figures it out!
That is definitely NOT right. Something is interfering with slide travel, and it appears to be intermittent.
I had to take mine apart and basically hand lap it with heavy grease. I also had to use a rubber mallet several times :)
Valve lapping compound would have made the job faster, in case you run into that again.
However, that score line on the frame rail is very telling. Something is getting in the rail that shoulnt be there.
Had the same problem with mine, had to use a rubber mallet to get it apart. Galled hard after a dozen rounds, sent it back, they loosened it up and returned it all scored but smoothed out. Now the slide locks back after every other round due to the slide stop getting bumped, the FPS falls out if I can get it to run past a couple rounds. It needs a lot of work, I may get around to it someday, not a fan of DW. My RIA 10mm functions much better.
I used mag polish as a lapping compound with mine (same thing I do with my Les Baers). I then did a 150 round break in, oiling the rails every 50 rounds. Took it home and complete disassembly. Put correct springs in it with a flat firing pin stop( all my 1911 10's get this). Has ran great every since. Great guns. Have a recent purchase Silverback that has been great also so far.
Years ago I bought into lubes which had Teflon in them like Tri-Flon in the old days. Used it on my 84 Hardballer with no problems.
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e193/dakota1911/bang2/Hardballer1_zpswexajsqp.jpg) (http://s39.photobucket.com/user/dakota1911/media/bang2/Hardballer1_zpswexajsqp.jpg.html)
These days I have been buying CLP type products with Teflon for SS. Not sure if it is all marketing hype but have used it on my DW Classic in 10mm which also has a very tight frame to slide fit with no problems.
(http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e193/dakota1911/DANWES10.jpg) (http://s39.photobucket.com/user/dakota1911/media/DANWES10.jpg.html)
In the old days the solution was not using the same SS alloy for the frame you use in the slide but wondering if the very tight fit DW uses is causing this and not really a true galling situation where the frame welds itself to the slide or maybe light galling. I wish the fellow in the uboob had a microscope and could show us some close up pictures after he took the Razorback apart the first time.
Slipstream. It is my lube for "problem" children.
I wouldn't be very happy if I spent $1300 and it ran as bad as that.
This happened to my Razorback once. Had to beat it apart with a soft mallet. I thought it was just my lack of lubing. Maybe not? I'd put about 700 round through it at that point, including shooting it at a tactical class. Guess I'll have to look out for problems as I go forward.
Knowing it could occur after what most would consider to be a decent break-in round count, is worrisome.
K ... so ...
I a no-boy fan of Dan Wesson so figured it was fair to reveal this information before I continue typing. I currently own a Silverback and previously owned a stainless vbob.
I watched through the first failure which is near the 3 minute 30 second mark. I can tell you that this shooter definitely outside my 1911 lube comfort level. He's well out on the not enough side of the equation. I can tell because 1) there is no evidence of lube dripping out of the slide to frame fit points, and 2) the sound of him racking that pistol made me cringe.
So, I run my 1911s wet and free from worry. IMO, running a tightly fit, stainless auto pistol dry or relatively dry is an invitation for problems I won't be inviting to my house.
Dan Wesson simply tends to provide their 1911s with more than the minimum required length of hanging rope. I'm the guy that field strips to relube several times before I get around to the process of cleaning.
So, Buddy10mm and Harrygunner ... I wouldn't worry about unless I "needed" to fire it dry.
My brand new Razorback made it exactly 4 rounds before locking up hard. Gun was dripping wet with Slip2000. I beat it apart and didn't see anything wrong so I relubed it, reassembled it, fired two more rounds and it locked up harder than the first time. And home I beat it apart with a rubber mallet and you could see the galling on the rails. Sent it back and just got it back yesterday so we'll see this weekend. I was told not to use Slip2000 but use one of their recommended lubes which are FP-10, Militec, and another one I can't remember.