Hi,
So in looking in a reload manual, The Complete Reloading manual for the 10mm/40 S&W, it's a ring bound pamphlet more than a true book.
In the IMR and Hercules powder section it has bullets just listed as weight, such as 155 Gr, 170 Gt etc, but no manufacturer or type? I'm assuming this is older data, but is there a "default" type bullet? Meaning if no details, they mean....xyz?
Thanks!! Just trying to get as much possible details I can in learning.
So you have to be careful there. It makes it sound like any bullet of a particular weight will work, but that is not necessarily the case. The cartridge overall length is also very important as the length of the bullet and a particular COL can impact the available case volume, increasing or decreasing pressure. There are other factors as well.
Most of the bullet will substitute by weight with the published book data even if ones an FMJ vs. JHP (which could be slightly longer) due to the safety margin built into the data and still be OK pressure wise.
When you start venturing to the upper end of performance, this can change as the longer bullet will occupy powder space, thus increase the pressure for a given powder charge. This is why you need to work up the load and inspect each casing as shot for signs of increasing pressure, such as flattened primers, leaking primers, firing pin wipe, blown out primers, bulged cases, SMILED cases, split or cracked casings...Each firearm is different, different people could have their guns setup differently with extra power recoil systems.
Take your time and learn what things are doing pay attention to the details! ;D
Ok, glad I asked!! I reload shotgun, which is that easy, x amount of powder to push x amount of weight, but had a feeling bullet loading wouldn't be that simple.
I could see that there could be safer pressures to make thiS equation safe, but with as much reload data there is, not worth it to me. But I'm also not looking to reload to extreme pressures, didn't buy 10mm for the famous FBI loads. I was looking for better trajectory than 45acp and a bit more umph, which many detailed recipes give me.
Thanks for the explanations guys!
Actually, hold on, speaking of internal volume in cases, I've read that 40 S&W data will work on 10mm, only subsituting the brass case. Is this not true? There would be alot more empty space in the shell.... about .15 inches (not exact) empty volume?
Couple of things on which to comment.
First, shotgun is not nearly that "easy". For instance, in just a few minutes on Hodgdon's site, I identified loads for 3 1/2" Steel shells using 1-7/8 oz weight, loading Longshot ranging from 32 grains to 39 grains depending on primer, wad and shot type. One of the big differences is lead or bismuth shot. This would correlate to jacketed versus solids in bullets. A 1-7/8 oz shot column of bismuth will be longer in a 12 gauge than the same weight shot column of lead. Less initial volume will mean a higher initial pressure per Boyles law.
Same thing here. The Lee manual is the same as the binder you have...It gives a bullet weight and general bullet construction along with starting and max loads and velocities. The idea is to start with the starting load and work up until you see either 1.) Pressure signs, 2.) Max velocity or 3.) Max charge.
40 S&W data will work. And will give you the "Famous FBI loads" for which you are not looking. That is how the 40 S&W was born. The FBI load was so lite that S&W realized it could be accomplished in a much shorter case. That load is a 180 grain JHP at 950 FPS, and is easily accomplished in 10mm with faster powders like Unique, and a light load of it at that.
The short version is the same as always. Reduce 10% and work up, looking for signs you are over pressure. Go off book at your own risk.
Thanks sqlbullet, I think shotgun is easy, haha, but I will admit, I've made it easy by talking to a bunch of cowboy action guys and oldtimers, and have resorted back to stacked card method of loading my shotshells, eliminating the wad type.
I had read the story of the 10mm to 40 S&W, but wanted to confirm the swap. Only reason I'm interested is to have more range in components, especially powders. This is why I stack load my shotshells, got tired of buying wads to match powders, primers to match those two, shells to match, etc. Stacked loading opens up a whole range of options, by eliminating the wads. If interested I can start another thread in reloading to explain the process. Shotgunworld.com, some of those guys are really interested in it, it's just the days of old type loading, it was a simpler time, haha
gehlsurf, Shotgunworld.com has some great info to be gained. I too play with loading my own shot shell and more recently Slugs!
Here is a post about the Lyman slugs...http://10mm-firearms.com/shotguns/new-adventure-12ga-slugs-lyman-525-grain/ (http://10mm-firearms.com/shotguns/new-adventure-12ga-slugs-lyman-525-grain/)
Hell yeah!!! I love the Lyman 525, AKA oversized pellet, LOL. Incase you were pondering it, I would stick with that slug, I'm NOT a fan of the LEE, 7/8 or 1 oz, inaccurate and the molds are of lesser quality, IMHO. If you ever get tired of the 525 beating on your shoulder, look into stacked loading with cork that replaces the wad-it's much softer shooting. Take a look at Circlefly.com, he sells all the components and if you call him, a wealth of knowledge in the field!! BPI sells the materials, too.
OK, Ok, I'll go on all night about shotguns..... moderators probably want us to stick to 10mm by now.... :))