Interesting 8)
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=687170
Reloads?Will not use em in the Glock.
I have only shot reloads in my Glock. Max loads smile less than my Para barrel. This looks to me like a reload that was way over pressure. I doubt the faulty brass comments. Which the brass looks bad now, there would have been lots of flame cutting when the case failed.
That piece of brass where it blew is usually the strongest and thickest part of the case head. I don't know if this brass was loaded several times or not, if it was, it could have suffured some fatiuge...
No mention of the load or powder being used...
QuoteThe load in question was well below loadbook max and was loaded in what was purported to be once fired brass. It looked perfectly fine when loaded with no evidence that it was weak or worn. I have previously fired about 250 rounds of this very same ammo through my S&W 1006 with no problems.
(http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm35/elkins_pix/case.jpg)
(http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm35/elkins_pix/case2.jpg)
One thing that is of concern is how nice and round the edges of the primer are...it is not flat at all!
Also this is FC "FEDERAL" brass, I can say just how may of these cases I have found split on the first firing of factory loading. :o
Maybe the FC brass is too hard? Read; Too brittle?
Good eye Shadow, I hadn't noticed the primer not showing any signs of flattening.
I brought the pictures over as a reference and study. Brass is an alloy (the proportions of zinc and copper can be varied to create a range of brasses with varying properties), many things can attack brass at a molecular level, as brass is fairly pourous.
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/25/Macrostructure_of_rolled_and_annealed_brass%3B_magnification_400X.jpg/220px-Macrostructure_of_rolled_and_annealed_brass%3B_magnification_400X.jpg)
Especially ammonia and products that contain ammonia like some polishing compounds caan break down the chemical bonds. Read Season cracking on this link to learn more!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brass (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brass)
The case head shows a heavy imprint from impact with the breech face, not known if this was from previous use. The color of this casing looks rough. Was it subjected to some chemical, I don't know!
i just ordered 400 reloads from Underwood.I setteled on 180 gr AT 1100 FPS.Reason,shoot them out of a Witness Compact.
Meh, nothing new about this. Either a reloading mistake, or bad brass. I've had trouble with the FC stuff before too. It didn't fail because it was a Glock.
I just wonder if lack of support there maybe helped though?
Sure, imagine what it would've done in a Delta Elite.
Result would've been similar in my old 10mm Witness too; chamber support in that one was at least as loose as a gen 3 G20.
Truth is, most of the talk about Glock kabooms is rumor and reputation, not fact. Just like .40 S&W, if the loads are within spec and the brass is good, the gun won't blow up.
Quote from: The_Shadow on December 02 2012 09:08:19 AM MST
That piece of brass where it blew is usually the strongest and thickest part of the case head. I don't know if this brass was loaded several times or not, if it was, it could have suffured some fatiuge...
No mention of the load or powder being used...
QuoteThe load in question was well below loadbook max and was loaded in what was purported to be once fired brass. It looked perfectly fine when loaded with no evidence that it was weak or worn. I have previously fired about 250 rounds of this very same ammo through my S&W 1006 with no problems.
One thing that is of concern is how nice and round the edges of the primer are...it is not flat at all!
What (usually) causes primers to flatten? Pressure. It would seem to me, judging by the pictures, the pressure may have had another outlet.
This indicates the pressure in itself was not the problem. If it were, the primer would have flattened, well before the case ruptured. The primer strike and striker channel imprints look unremarkable. It appears this case ruptured long before peak pressure was ever reached, the location of the ramp bulge and centered primer strike indicates it was fully locked into battery, at least until the pressure dropped below critical. The striations on the case head and primer indicates at least a partial battery unlock under pressure. The original OP stated it had to be manually ejected, after he dropped the pistol immediately after the KB!, and the actual state during and immediately following the rupture isn't known, however, the lack of an extractor mark may indicate the slide didn't cycle (assuming the extractor was in fact engaged during the firing).
And, as others have stated here and elsewhere, Federal "FC" brass is among the poorest of quality, and was never intended/designed for non-commercial loading or reuse. For this, and other reasons, I don't/won't use "FC" pistol brass for any high pressure load, but FC rifle brass has been as good as any. You can't buy it new (that I've seen/heard/found), so every piece is at least once fired, often of unknown origin and age/history. "Federal" headstamp brass is a completely different story. I've gone through tens (if not hundreds) of thousands of "FC" .38Spl (~14K PSI) and .45ACP (20K PSI) brass, and it is by far the worst of the worse.
(http://christopherburg.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/12/how-a-glock-works.gif)
I lol'd
LOL,Nice.
Ive been hand loading for 30 years and have never seen a kaboom but this looks like the result of an over worked case. It probably had a crack in it
prior to loading.