Quote from: John A. on February 14 2023 12:20:40 PM MST
I tried it on 10.

Didn't like it.

Wasn't terrible on 357, though as you would expect, still had a lot or sonic crack.  Using 38's were as quiet as 9mm though. 38 is very likely the best round to suppress.  Even +P 38 are subsonic.

But, back to your question, it wasn't worth it on the 10mm.  Of course, just my opinion.

38/357 lever action, pistol or?

I have a 46 Bushwacker in jail which is user serviceable it can be used with pistol (piston system) or rifles.

I believe the 9mm and 45 are the pistol cals to suppress, but wondered about 10mm with reduced and full power loads?

I have different brands/models but none have threaded barrels but I would think the Glock 40 would have the most support for barrel options.

Here is the list of pistols in 10mm I have:

M&P 4.5
XDM 4.5
Glock 40
RIA 52000 (double stack w/6" barrel

I even kicked around the idea of pistol carbines.

Comments and/or thoughts?

Found and no longer needed

Had a small piece of brass shaving under the extractor.....no more issues...just seems weird that it was consistently the second or third round. Anyway, problem solved.

Thanks for all your replies.

8-8.2 grains have been the sweet spot for me with 180 grainers.

Quote from: John A. on May 17 2022 04:23:53 PM MDT
Weak striker spring?

My second thought after cleaning didn't work along with the firing pin being worn. It's just weird that it happens on the second or third round which is why I cleaned.  Every weak spring that I've had either wouldn't hit hard enough period or it would take several strikes to get the primer to ignite.

Thanks for the reply John.

My G40 just started not firing on the second or third round (every time) until I wait for 10 minutes or so and then the same thing happens.

I took the fire pin apart and clean it along with the spring, firing pin hole, slide, etc.

Any ideas ?

FYI- Starline has them for backorder. I back ordered last week and received them within 4 days

It's been a while since I messed with AA#9 and still have a couple pounds left from this testing:

https://www.10mm-firearms.com/reloading-10mm-ammo/10mm-rainer-180-gr-and-accurate-9-data/

I recently ordered 9 lbs and the container is branded a little different and the load data has changed (from a max of 14.9gr at OAL 1.260") to a max load of 13.5 gr with a shorter OAL of 1.250" so I'll need to work up again.

Seems like I remember that accuracy shined best at the top end of the loadings.

12.1 gr should produce 1100 fps out of a 5" barrel.

Quote from: CERJ on April 04 2022 12:06:25 PM MDT
Guys,
Thanks for the info.
The bags are interesting and worth having, I?ll be getting those and trying them out.
When you use case lube on the inside of your dies, i am assuming you clean that out before using them?

Depends. I clean all my fired brass in a tumbler (drum) filled with hot water, SS media,1/4 teaspoon of limi shine and let dry before reloading. I also keep my dies covered to keep as dust free as possible. I don't clean the dies using one shot until 2500 rounds or once a year (if that) YMMV.  However, if I use a wax case lube (imperal or unique) on bottle neck cartridge, then I clean the dies afterwards and then treat with one shot for storage to prevent rust. Too much wax in the die and/or on the cases can and will cause dents in bottle neck cases.

Note: Some report they stuck bottle neck cases in dies using one shot, I have stuck a case (once) when I didn't follow the directions on the can!!!

If you are going to use a petroleum-based product, I would absolutely clean the dies before using them to prevent contaminating the powder.

I use Hornady one shot case lube on the inside of my dies and Hornady one shot gun cleaner on the outside of my dies.

I use froglube CLP (paste) on my knife, but will no longer use it on firearms, especially semi-auto in the summer as it will dissolve/melt (heat) and get in the trigger assembly and will cause issues when it cools.


PS: I forgot to mention that I use Break Free Collector (Long-Term Protectant) on firearms, etc when not using them for a while (years) as it will last 5 years

Quote from: sparkyv on March 29 2022 01:14:51 PM MDT
I wasn't sure I'd like the moonclips either, but being able to shoot 40S&W was a boon, and I quickly adapted to the moonclips.  The M610 is a real honey!

Quote from: TXCOONDOG on March 13 2022 06:11:15 PM MDT
It's been a real struggle with a debate of to get a 10 revolver. Just something about being an auto loader cartridge

Actually I like the idea of moon clips as it will be faster than a speed loader and keeps the fired brass together. I think the 10mm is perfect for a auto.  Every time I get ready to buy a 10mm revolver, I start considering the 41 mag and 44 mag and how much they offer in versatility (mild to wild).

I'm with Shadow when it comes to my loads that are close or over max charges. I'm going to build a wind shield/block for my over sensitive beam scale.


There are mixed reviews on both the RCBS Chargemaster Supreme and Hornady Auto Charge Pro (flip a coin). However, Hornady seems to get a little better reviews and is about $100 cheaper at Midsouth. I ordered the Hornady G3 1500 digital scale as it has the same technology as the Auto charge with decent reviews.

I went with the Hornady and cross my fingers that it's a good unit for loading pistol and shotgun loads.

Thanks All.

I need recommendations for a digital scale too. I will use this scale to sort brass, bullets and as a backup....besides my eye sight isn't the best any more and digital scale is a lot faster/easier to read.

I appreciate the feedback all.

Been looking at the Hornady Auto Charge Pro and RCBS Chargemaster Supreme.

I have an older Redding Beam Scale (over 50 years), sent it off and had it calibrated. It's super accurate but a pain as it's sensitive to even breathing near it...... definitely cannot have a fan or ac on.