Quote from: my_old_glock on June 19 2016 12:49:50 PM MDT


Lone Wolf no longer sells 6" 10mm barrels for the G20. At least they are not listed on their website. They have a 6" 40S&W barrel for the G20. It would be nice if they elongated the throat so we could load a 40S&W case to 10mm length.

Yes, they do https://www.lonewolfdist.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=942&CAT=240

Just an update........Yesterday I received the ZEV Technologies order I placed for this, http://zevtechnologies.com/search/index.ssp#/s/811745021744.  I installed it with just one hiccup.  When I ordered it, I ordered it for a Glock 30, since that is the frame the kit was being used in, and I honestly did not know if there would be a problem if I ordered the kit for a Glock 29 instead, and I still don't.  Everything went into the Glock 30 frame perfectly, however, the firing pin safety that comes with the kit is a (large), and the Glock 29 slide takes a (small) firing pin safety, ask me how I know that now.  No big deal, I ordered another. 

One other thing I noted after installing this kit is that when I installed the trigger into the frame, but had not yet installed the ZEV striker into the slide, the slide would not go into full battery if I didn't let it really sling shot home.  Once the ZEV striker was installed into the slide, that issue went away.  One thing to remember is that I have a 15 lb. recoil spring installed on this slide.  I installed my other slide (30) on this same frame and experienced no such problem with the slide going into full battery while letting the slide just go home softly.  That other slide (30) does not have a ZEV striker, so I believe the issue is just a light recoil spring on the (29) slide, for the most part anyway.  It says something about the ZEV parts when the (29) slide with a weak recoil spring will work with the slicked up ZEV striker installed, but not the Glock stock striker, though it did not have an issue with going into battery before any ZEV parts were in the frame or slide.  You can draw your own conclusions about that.  It is worth noting that the 29 slide, with it's complete ZEV parts installed, with the exception of the correctly sized firing pin safety I am waiting on, has a much better trigger pull that what the 30 slide does with this same frame and trigger, but with just stock Glock parts in the slide.  I can only conclude that the ZEV experience is not complete if you do not use ZEV throughout the whole firearm, and I'm not just saying that, I am not a fan of wasting money, but man, this is a really nice trigger, and every part seems to affect the feel of the pull.  Since I have another slide, the 29 slide, that I'll be using on this frame, I'll need to order another ZEV striker and striker spring set for that slide to get the whole ZEV experience with both slides, but that can wait for now, the strikers are not cheap.  The good news is that the firing pin safety that would not work in the Glock 29 slide will work in the Glock 30 slide, so no parts will be 'injured in the filming' of this build.    Now for the review of the ZEV trigger kit, that everyone else has already reviewed.....WOW, what a nice trigger.  The old saying holds true, 'You get what you pay for', at least most of the time.  Hope this helps someone.

Quote from: DM1906 on July 13 2016 07:27:02 AM MDT
Too much ado about nothing, I think. Many/most comps and cans mount the same way. You don't have to Loc-Tite the barrel threads, only the set screw. Once the set screw is set, the comp won't loosen. It only has to prevent rotation, and there's no rotational force on it to stress the screw. I use a headed screw during build and testing before (semi) permanent mounting at conclusion. Shims can also be used to full-torque the comp (or can) to the barrel, but Loc-Tite is still recommended. The Bull-Nose slide/comps aren't a significant issue, as they have enough gap that if they loosen, they have to turn quite a bit before interference. If you don't like that, square slide comps are available, and fit either. Once I complete a build, the barrel threads and set screw get Loc-Tite, regardless of the brand. If you are frequently R/R'ing the comp, for whatever reason, a ported barrel would probably be the better option. I think for this build, that would be a better, anyway. It simply eliminates most of the issues you've seen along the way.

The comment of "too much comp" was meant sincerely. It explains the majority of the issues you had early. The comp has the function of dissipating (redirecting) gasses prior to the jet-effect of the gasses forcing the barrel rearward to begin action cycling. Too much gas dissipation leaves too little gas energy for this function. The longer barrel (by a lot) coupled with the (too robust) comp is the problem. RSA adjustment is routine during build modification, but too little spring is as bad as too much comp, and it greatly diminishes overall functionality. It will limit the range of rounds that will properly function in the pistol, at one end of the range or the other, or both. It's a balance of slide stroke and slide velocity. To sight examples I routinely use extremes. In this case, compare it to the recent .460R long slide build I did. Ultimately, the pistol functions flawlessly, from full power .460R, to light .45ACP. It doesn't batter the frame, doesn't short-stroke .45ACP target loads, and it still passes the "Glock RSA test" (absolutely necessary for a reliable platform).

Oh I know you were sincere in your comments, and I really appreciate them.  If I had known then what I know now, I am sure I would have reconsidered this build and how it was accomplished.  If I were going to use this gun for anything other than full power rounds I would have to build it differently, as you have stated, but full power 10mm is all I want this to function with, or I'd use a different gun.  What do you think would be an alternative to a lighter spring, such as what I have used on this build?  I couldn't really see any other route to go with the exception of lightening cuts to the slide, but then I figured I'd be beating the gun up if I ever switched back to the stock configuration, even with the heaviest recoil spring option that is possible.  I did not want to use a ported barrel because I wanted to get all of the velocity out of a 6" barrel that I could squeeze from it.  So far I have only used factory ammunition, but I'll be reloading some 200 gr. cast loads for it eventually, and then is when the heat will be turned up a little bit, and also the reason why I have the various weight recoil springs, to tune it with.  I doubt I'll be using a 15 lb. recoil spring when I begin reloading for it, but it is possible nothing will change.  I'm not too experienced with Glocks, so all advice is welcomed.  Thank you.

Oh, I forgot to tell you guys something cool.  If you want to use a normal open end Glock holster for a set up like this, the comp. actually slides right through the holster without any real issues, meaning you don't need to look for a different holster to use with this set up as a woods gun.  Now, this comp. fits in a standard holster, sliding through, but don't think that you are going to be doing any speed draws or fast returns to the holster, you have to pay attention when drawing or returning it to the holster, so hold on to your race guns. 

I don't know about the compensator being to robust for this barrel length, though I did have to go with the lightest recoil spring available, that I know of, which I talked about in the original post.  I can't say that you are not correct about that, DM1906, but it is working fine now, and unless I get some unusual wear on the firearm from shooting a few rounds a year while playing around with it, or hunting with it, I think it'll last me a pretty long time.  I don't plan on shooting this gun much, it was just a build for fun.  On the mention of the Alpha Wolf comp., I do think it may look better, and possibly work better, but the manner in which LW attaches the comps is, well, not how I would do it, as they will not stay tight without loctite, which makes getting the set screw on the comp. loose for removal a real pain in the rear.  The Alpha Wolf comp. also looks very strange if installed on a long barrel, because the comp. is designed to form fit to the slide on a Glock, not sit out in space on the end of the barrel, as mine does.  On my Glock in the pic., I have no intention of removing that comp. for any reason, as the barrel can be cleaned from either end, easily, and there really is no reason for me to go back to a shorter barrel, since that is not what I have this gun for, so the loctite works for me.  If I were shooting a gun with an Alpha Wolf comp. on it, and it fit the slide correctly, I would be very concerned that the comp. would not stay squarely in line with the slide, if it were to work loose with loctite on it, and result in a scratched up slide.  What I am saying is that the Alpha Comp., to me, is dangerous to install on a Glock with a short barrel so that the comp. actually fits around the slide, and it doesn't look good on a long barrel, in my opinion.  Also, the LW comps., in my experience and the experience of pretty much everyone I have read about that have used them or are using them, must be installed with loctite, making removing them difficult, and switching barrels tedious, therefore making them a permanent fixture to the barrel in my mind.  If I were LW, I'd have designed these comps to be installed with the use of indexing shims, possibly eliminating the need for loctite, instead of the current method, which is to thread the comp. all the way on, then back it off and index it, and tighten down the tiny allen head set screw that runs through the base of the comp. and tightens up against a flat on the barrel, accomplishing nothing to (lock the comp. down).  I guess they assume that you will figure out to put loctite on both the threads of the comp. and the set screw, because if you do not do that, it WILL loosen with the first or second shot fired.

I too like the Sig 10mm offering very much.  I also relieve the top of my Glock trigger guards, not the bottom, but the top, as I have the problem with my finger tip and the side of my finger nail dragging on the inside of the trigger guard, most annoying to me.  I have the trigger guard problem with both Gen3 and Gen4 Glocks, they're both the same.

This is kind of a crappy picture, but hey, it's a Glock.



Fixed the link!  The Shadow

Thanks for the welcome.  If I knew how to post pics on this page, I would do that for you, but I can't seem to figure out how to get my picture below the maximum size for posting onto this page, sorry.

There is a project I have been working on, some may find it worth knowing about, though it has been done before.  I've taken my Glock 29 slide and installed a Lone Wolf 6" threaded barrel with a Lone Wolf compensator on the end.  Through experimentation, I have come to find out that when using 165 grain HPR ammo, a decent bullet/round, the slide will not eject a round, while using a 21 lb. recoil spring set from Wolff Gunsprings, which is what I use with a stock length barrel in this slide.  I changed back to the Glock factory recoil spring, a 17 lb. weight, and it allowed the extraction and ejection of the round, but it would not lock back on an empty magazine.  I then obtained a Wolff calibration spring set for the 29 (17, 19, and 21 lbs.) as well as a reduced weight 15 lb. spring.  I installed the 15 lb. recoil spring, firing the same ammo, and the results were the same, no lock back on an empty magazine.  Now I had no choice but to either reduce slide weight, not an option for me personally, or change ammo.  I used 180 gr. HPR HP ammo and the gun functioned perfectly, as it should.  I switched to SigSauer  Elite Performance 180 gr. FMJ and it functioned perfectly with that as well.  I then gave Underwood 155 grain ammo a try and the same result was achieved, it functioned perfectly.  None of the ammunition that functioned well seemed to be giving me excessive recoil with the 15 lb. recoil spring set, in fact, the recoil impulse seemed to be just right, to me anyway, for the gun to have just enough recoil action to work everything reliably.  I am not writing this to talk about the Lone Wolf products, Wolff Gunsprings, or brands of ammo that I used.  I just wanted to pass along the info. I learned while getting this slide to work in this configuration.  That being said, in conclusion, if building this type of gun yourself, just know that light powered ammo. will not do the trick for you, you need to be using a good 180 grain or higher load, or a lower weight bullet that is at or close to the limit with a powder charge in that particular loading.  I was impressed with the SigSauer load, as well as the Underwood load, but the SigSauer load is much more affordable, and for shooting anything I might need to shoot, it will work for me, even if it is FMJ.  I would say that ordering a variety of recoil springs is the way to go with this set up, as all guns are not the same, and your experience may vary from mine.  It may be possible that as things smooth up on this newly installed barrel, and the slide breaks in more, that the same ammo I had issues with would work just fine, but only shooting time will tell.  I believe that shooting higher power ammo may allow the use of higher weight recoil springs, but I haven't experimented with that yet.  I believe that the weight of the compensator I am using is more of a factor in the problem that I experienced than what the length of the barrel was.  Anyway, I am hoping that maybe this helps someone out in the future, have fun with your experimentation.