I would like to see a DI gas operated AR upper in 10mm.  The rounds fit fine in a standard AR magazine.  They just have to pushed way to the back.  A spacer could be made and the follower shortened and a spring that's not as wide (front to rear) 10 inch barrel with carbine length gas tube.... Should work.  Need some mods to the bolt face.... ...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JGH1uJFUivc

https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/10mm_Gas_Op_Ar_15/15-390846/

Here are five cases.  The two on the left are normal no high pressure signs.  The three on the right show high pressure indications.  Look just above the extractor grove and notice the ring there.  My primers look almost as good as yours but that's not the only place to look.  Actually my primers from the high pressure loads have more firing pin swipe.   The far right one if you look closely shows a shiny ring above the extractor grove.  I should have stopped there and backed off a few tenths of a grain of powder, but....   Luckily I didn't blow any thing up or lose any body parts.

Impressive performance for a 180 grain bullet.  What is your load data?  I'm getting high pressure signs for a 155 Winchester bullet with 12 grains on VV 3n38.  Wanted to get up to 1400 fps.  Got there but not again with the VV3N38.  What powder are you using?

Ya I read about this on the Taurus forums web site and everywhere I looked they are "Not In Stock".  Keeping my eyes peeled and my ears pierced.

Don't look bad from this angel.   Post up a side view shot.  Shiny ring around the base?  Bulge at the base?  What pistol?  Do you have a chronograph?

Post up a picture.  Must be the front of the rear sight over hangs the dove tail slot, eh?  Can you push the rear sight out and (I hate to say this) take a Dremel to the front end?  I would use a bench grinder but Dremel is the clich

I have sworn to never ever buy another EAA product.  If you want a budget semi auto 10 mm pistol look at Taurus.  They now have the TH10 10mm auto.  I'll trade even up my Witness Match for one.

It is clear as mud.  Can you post up a pic?

I agree.  When I described my issues to them they said send send it back, ...at my expense.  $40.00 in shipping versus $12.00 for a Wolff replacement spring.  Do the math.  The safety is mushy and needs a new spring as well.  Will never, ever buy anything EAA again.

I agree it may be perhaps more "brittle" and tend to flake if not plated well.   It is a  tad stronger and in the 10mm Auto that is a good thing, I believe, especially at the base/Head. 

Thanks for your input there sqlbullet.  I have used nickel plated in CMP/NRA High Power Rifle Matches,  mainly for reliability in rapid fire. 

OK, 638 cases of brass ready for powder dump.  2/3 ? 5/8 ? rnds nickel plated, Most once fired.  Some on their 3rd go around.   Using V V 3 N 38 as that is what I had in the hopper (loading for some sub sonic 450 Bushmaster).  Going to load some (200) Winchester 155 grn. Silvertip HP.   Looking to push them up to 1400 fps.   Favorite is my 165 Sierra JHP pushed close to that as well.

Does anyone think that the smoother, slicker nickel plated case would put more stress on the pistol versus the brass case which feel a tad more, not so slick?   I can put my hand it the can to pull out a case and tell with the feel from the tips of my fingers whether is nickel or brass without even seeing it.. 

They are easier to find in the grass and gravel.

....of 10mm auto while watching the NHL Playoffs.  Got another 300+ cases ready for tomorrow night.  I was down to about 200 rounds and knew I had to get to it.  One thing I noticed is I could tell the difference between the nickel plated cases and the brass just by feel.   I did that Star Line Group buy a couple years back.   I deprimed, cleaned (wet with pins) and toss them into a couple of coffee cans.  Nickel is definitely smoother.  Smoother would have less grip on the chamber walls,  I would think.  More reverse pressure on the action?

It's all lies without a picture.