The HPA HR404 and Short act H.R.2395 are stuck in committee, largely due to chickenshit rep. https://jasonsmith.house.gov/ who is the head of the ways and means committee.

I have called both the ways and means committee hotline itself and told them to move it out of committee to the floor for a vote.

Since that isn't doing any good, I also called his office directly and insisted the intern give him my message to grow a pair of balls and stop being a cuck.

Capital switchboard can put you through to both offices.

(202) 224-3121

Use it ^

It doesn't even take a whole 2 minutes.

OK, this may cause some people to develop a case of the uncontrolled twitches but I'm going to post it anyway.

I do know there are a few 147 gr 9mm bullet molds out there, but I don't like them. 

I shoot a lot of heavy subsonic 9mm stuff.  Matter of fact, that's almost exclusively all I do shoot these days.  Mostly because it's quiet and uses very little powder.

In taking a pointer from what the israeli's did to keep the longer barreled uzi's subsonic, they started using 158 gr bullets.  Since there are no 158 gr bullet molds for 9mm, I did what I thought was a good idea and started using my 38/357 mold for them.

And obviously run them all through a 9mm sizing die and then powder coat them.

They sound as good and load exactly the same as the 165 gr bullets that I've been making and loading for a couple of years now.

Just throwing it out there for anyone else that may be interested.

@Kenk I've been speaking to you for a while about casting and was able to do a few today.  I took plenty of pictures so hopefully you can follow along. I've always heard a picture is worth 1000 words.

The first handful of pours will need to go back into the pot until the mold warms up enough.  But, as you can see, the texture and the frosting and the ridges and just generally looking bad, lets you know to dump those back into the pot.



I kept a few bullets out to show how they progressively get better when everything starts working together.  The far left is before the mold gets warm enough, all the way through to the right when everything is as good as it's going to be.



Once everything is the right temp, casting goes pretty quickly.  I was able to use my little double cavity mold and have a box of bullets poured in around 15 minutes.  After you do this for a little while, you get into a groove.



After they cool down for a bit, I like to powder coat mine.  Some people will run them through a sizer die, but these poured perfectly so I didn't see a reason.  After sizing though, it's time to powder coat.

I use the shake-n-bake method. It's the easiest out there.

I put the bullets into plastic butter bowl or cool whip bowl with a lid, and use a teaspoon of powder coat and dump in the bowl with the bullets.





Then you put the lid on the bowl and swirl it around for a minute or two.  You'll be able to see when they're coated well.  *I will note that I used OD drab green on these, and they had a bunch of light spots that wouldn't cover no matter what I did or how long I swirled them around.  Some powder is just that way.  I am still going to use those bullets, but going forward, I doubt that I'll use the OD green anymore and will use another that covers better.  But, this is what I got this batch so that's what I'm showing.



After you coat the bullets, I dump them out over a mesh wire and let the excess powder catch on a piece of aluminum foil underneath, where I can catch it and put it back into the bowl for the next batch so it's not wasted.  You can see the little pile of powder in the middle of the foil where I dumped it out of the butter bowl.



Then dump the coated bullets onto a little baking tray covered with parchment paper so it doesn't stick and let it bake for 15 or 20 minutes at 400*.  I generally try to keep any of the bullets from touching each other, but sometimes it's unavoidable.



After it cools down, you're ready to load them.



I hope this helps explain it a bit better.

Good evening guys.  I'm not sure that this is a topic for the 10mm forum or better suited to general discussion, or maybe not even at all, but I was curious if anyone else has taken advantage of seeing what's in their area with trail cameras?  Mods, if you think this is the wrong place for it, please move it wherever you feel is better.

I've used trail cameras since probably 2003 or 2004.  Well before digital cameras were common.  Many of my old cameras were 35mm and still used the strobe flash when I first got one.  Even after you filled up the roll of film you had to take them off to get developed and hope it wasn't the wind blowing little limbs that tripped the camera.

In the years since things have gotten a lot easier to use.  And with electronics that lets you view the pics or video while standing there at the camera, I'm not going to lie, is pretty nice.

But, the main reason why I like it, you never know what you're going to see.  Lately, I've been using a camera with sound too.  Lots of sounds that are in the background that some are just down right unexplainable what they are.

In the years since I started, I have been able to much better manage the game on the land.  And as a result, many things have increased in numbers.  Sadly, a few have decreased as well too.  Especially the grouse and turkey population.  That is mainly due to the increase in predators.  Coyote.  Lynx, wolves, bears and mountain lions.







Here's a few interesting lynx videos.  It found a deer carcass and covered it up with leaves to maybe keep other animals from seeing it.  And then another video of it dragging it off.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n06uxtEfBW4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BMGNLxXc09k

I'm actually glad this is the only time I've seen this one.  But just getting him once, shows that despite that the state says they are extinct here, this would prove otherwise.



I believe this one is a wolf in the video.  That's a honda 420 fourtrax in the background and that canine looks to be about as tall as the headlights of it.  I don't believe it's a coyote.  We've heard wolves howling up there before.  I'll add a video of it taken on a cell phone when we were camping.  You'll have to turn the sound way up and listen for it though.  It's a deep gutteral howl in the distance.

https://i.imgur.com/AlFjARW.mp4

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/RQ1R5z05Gv8

We were starting to have a nice herd of elk too, until the state game in their infinite wisdom tracked and relocated them to another county that was trying to start an animal preserve and attraction like jurassic park that drives people around in busses hoping to see a glimpse of them.

 



Sadly, I haven't seen an elk in probably 5 years now. 

I'll also mention that I have pictures and videos of more than 30 different bears in the same location.  We're over-run with bears and again, the state protects them with a passion because of their tourism value.  I think you'd get less prison time and fine if you shot the governor instead of taking care of a nuisance or sick bear that needs dealt with.  Especially since much of the problem from them is the overpopulation and not enough food for them to eat naturally so they just dumpster dive and kill your pets and livestock to take their food.   But again, I digress.  And we have some monster 600+ lb bears here too.











https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IM7L0ygYUzA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T8f1APC7Geg

And of course, the deer.  Everyone likes to see deer videos and pictures.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_lbGC6EjA0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2xfbTHw4HG8


Myself, I like the trail camera because it lets me know what and how many critters are frequenting the property.  I've worked hard planting nut trees and providing a good habitat for them.  It's pretty rewarding to see that hard work paying off.  And it's a lot like hunting.  I get as much enjoyment out of watching the wildlife as I do eating them.

I was finally able to find a pound of blue dot powder, and after hearing so many positives from the folks here, I ordered it.

I'm not really sure how it compares to the #9 powder that I've been using, but I'm hoping to get some decent speeds out of it with 155, 175 cast/powder coat and 180 pills for deer hunting.

Will be shooting these out of my 16" barreled carbine and hope to be able to find a bullet combination that it likes.

Since this is the first time I've used blue dot I'm not exactly what I should expect out of it.  But, if it doesn't work out so good with the 10mm, maybe it'll do OK with 357 or shotgun loads I guess.  I load for them too.

OK, I know there's a bunch of different "right" answers all depending on which 10mm AR style action you have.

For instance, the banshee uses a 3.5oz buffer the best that I can recall off the top of my head with their rotary delay bolt.  It's supposed to be one of the better designs out there.  Trouble is, cmmg is really proud of them and grabbing one for under $1500 is almost unheard of, which put it well outside of what I wanted to spend on a little whitetail carbine.

I'm not sure exactly what the buffer weighs on the DI guns?

But, for the blowback 10mm guns, it takes a beefy 10oz bolt.

But, the thing is, nobody makes a rifle length heavy buffer for those of us who may want a rifle stock or at least a rifle length tube.  So, when life hands you lemons, you make lemonade.

I'm waiting on an A1 buffer tube and a piece of foam to cover the tube, much like the old Ace skeleton stocks that were so popular during the ban years.  Truth is, I still love that style.  Especially while hunting.  The foam feels so much better on those cold snowy and frosty days when you look down the sights at a whitetail.  Plus, I always thought that it quitened the "sproing" sound down better too.  Though I'm going to be using a flat coil chrome silicone tubbs/superior shooting 308 cal spring in mine since that's arguably the heaviest spring weight you can probably get that I know of.

In the years since the AWB, Ace has sold to doublestar AR manufacturing and they now have what they call an ultralight stock.  Which is essentially a tube with a piece of foam and a clamp on butt plate. Here's a link to how they look and mine will be very similar.  https://www.midwayusa.com/product/101784526

Well, I have been thinking about the gov trying to ban braces and stuff calling them stocks, so since I have an extra laying around collecting dust,  I decided that I'm going to use a gearhead tailhook brace on the end of the buffer tube to legitimately create a butt plate.  I can add a couple of pics of that later after the tube and foam is delivered if anyone is interested in seeing it, but that leaves a dilemma in regards to the buffer.

You can't use a carbine length buffer in a rifle length buffer tube.  Carbine buffers are too short and would cause the bolt to collide into the rear of the receiver and would destroy something in very short order.

And unfortunately, the market isn't big enough that you can find a super heavyweight buffer in rifle length either.

So, maybe the solution is to add an extension onto the heavy carbine buffer and bring it to proper length?



OK.  That was easy enough.  It was just a 1.8 inch extension and a couple of holes to put in some roll pins and hold everything back together,  but what about adding the ledge for the buffer spring?  After some thinking about it, I simply added a 1" OD piece of aluminum and bored it out to 3/4" ID and slid it into place.

While it isn't as nice as a machined contour, it will give plenty of a shoulder for the buffer spring to seat against.



My sleeve also sits back about 1/2" further than the OEM rifle length buffer, but I figure that may add a little to the pre-load on the spring keeping the bolt closed a little longer.

And if I don't like it, I could always slide it off the buffer and shorten it down to where the OEM location is.  No big deal.

Another purpose for wanting to swap out from a collapsible stock to a rifle is that while the gun is cycling perfectly now, it is ejecting empty cases into the next zip code.  Considering that I'm loading to max, I'm still trying to keep it from launching the brass as far.

So, this may help a little?  I don't know, but it at least shouldn't hurt it any either.

I also checked the weight after adding the extensions.  12.35oz

So,  that too should help some.

Truth is, I could bore out the extension that I made and could insert more buffer weights inside of it if I were really inclined to.  But I don't think I will at this time.  I'd like to shoot it a bit before deciding whether to do that or not.

I'll let you guys know how it does after I get to shoot it, but I'm hoping that the ejection is more mild. 

I just thought some of you may be interested in the buffer mod because I'm sure I'm not the only person out there that would like to use a rifle stock, or at least a rifle length stock and add to the LOP to get it more comfortable on the shoulder where your cheekweld is concerned.  And the extra travel, may make it more mild and pleasant to shoot too?  I know that I prefer shooting my 20 inch AR's more than the shortest ones.

I don't think the 10mm is bad now in the recoil department.  I'm not implying that it is.  I grew up shooting shotguns until I had nice purple and green bruises on my shoulder.  10mm is nothing compared to that.

But, I do appreciate the longer length of pull though.  It just feels better to me.

Anyway, just thought I'd share.

This may not be new news for some of you, but was news to me.  Hogdon purchased Alliant/Ramshot powder company and has now taken over production.

I have some very mixed feelings about this.  While I've never had a problem from any of the manufacturers before, I am just nervous putting all of my eggs in the same basket and simply hope that everything works out.

https://hodgdon.com/hodgdon-acquisitions/

As the title implied, don't try to put a lightweight trigger with short reset and short pull in your 10mm AR's.

I had initially installed a straight trigger Chip McCormick trigger in my build while waiting for a heavier trigger to come in the mail and that was a mistake.

The short reset/short light pull trigger bump fired far too easily and took me by surprise.  Considering that I was shooting on a wobbly table, was probably the result of a perfect storm of coincidences.  But was unexpected nonetheless.

It fired so fast that I flinched and afterwards was surprised that I didn't suffer an OOB discharge, but thankfully that didn't occur too.

So, I immediately stopped, removed the trigger out of the gun until the replacement arrived.

I ultimately ended up using a Rise LE145 trigger and it's doing great.  I shot it a lot today and was unable to recreate it despite doing everything the exact same as before.  Same ammo, same table, and all.

No more surprise bump fires.  Accurate enough for hunting. 

I zero'd the optic today and had several touching at 25 yards where I typically zero my pistol caliber builds.  My son walked back to about 65 yards and was able to ring the steel target 3 out of 3 times off hand before having to pack up from all the rain we've had the last few days.

So, just wanting to give a PSA for anyone that cares and is wondering which trigger to use in their build.  While I'm not shilling for Rise Armament, I more specifically wanted to warn against NOT using one too light and too short of reset because I had problems with it.

After looking around online, I'm not the only person who reports similar occurrences using really light triggers in these.  I'm just trying to share a suggestion to prevent that from happening to anyone else unexpectedly.

I recently finished two different AR builds which used glock mags.  I'll be upfront and honest that I've never been a big fan of glocks, so I have very little first hand experience with them.

But even then, unless you use a KRISS mag extension, the only other mag that I know of that has a decent capacity has been the SGM korean mags.

But, I'm curious if those are reputable mags in the first place. 

I've noticed on the 10mm, that the top of the feedlips are rubbing the bottom of my bolt carrier.  I have ordered a 15 round factory mod 20 mag to see if it fits better.

But, even the 45acp mags seem to be all over the place in quality.  Most of them drop free in my lower.  But a few are pretty tight and need to be pulled out by hand.  I'm assuming from the bodies swelling from being fully loaded. 

So, I'm curious of the OEM glock mags are the same way, especially in regards to the bodies swelling.

When I mentioned the top of the feedlips rubbing the 10mm bolt carrier, it is, but seems to be "breaking in" nicely.  While it's still slightly in contact, it's not stopping the bolt or anything.  The first maybe 3 shots was pretty sluggish, but after that, seems to be doing better.

But that's why I wanted to try a factory glock mag to see if it's any different or better.

I've been looking for a "cheap" red dot to put on my 10mm AR carbine and the reviews I have seen of these have been pretty good and was wondering if anyone else has been using the sig romeo 5?

Battery life seems to be good.  It should be lighter than the other cheap red dot and mount that I have on the gun now.

Just wondering if anyone else here is using one and what their opinion is of it.  I'm nearing the point of making a decision come payday whether to get it or the solar powered vism and was just asking for some opinions.

Was wanting to try a handful of Hunter Supply 175 gr wadcutter hardcast before trying to find a mold for it to make sure it'll feed in my AR and was wondering if anyone has a load worked up for it already.  I expect they'll load very similar to 180 gr pills, but wanted to ask in advance before I bother my buddy with quickload to get some numbers on it.

Here's the bullets that I'm referring to.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/2046539567?pid=826796

Also not sure to try to clean them and powder coat them or not.  But at the velocities I expect them to reach, may not lead up the barrel too bad on their own?

I say nearing completion because I can't say it's almost done yet or not.

I'm hoping that it runs well, but won't know until later this week or weekend.  Since it's pieced together from various left over parts and PCC brands, it's a crap shoot right now but I have tried to do my research to minimize known problems.

This gun was somewhat of an unexpected project.   With the anticipated rule changes the atf has set in motion, I stopped procrastinating and finished it.

To begin with, wasn't sure if I wanted to do another 45acp build and use 45smc or just do a 10mm.  I guess you should be able to figure out since I'm here that I wanted to try 10mm to see what it can do.

Everything but the flash hider and charging handle is here now, and enough to be able to get a picture.  I robbed one of my other charging handles on an upper that's not got another home until the one I ordered gets here.

It wasn't the handguard or optic that I wanted to use, but I can change both later as I can better afford it.  With the added cost of fuel and food right now, not sure when that's going to be though.

For the time being, I raided the spare parts box and that'll be good enough to get it running.  The handguard I wanted to use is a 13" slim handguard, rather than my old Olympic Arms FIRSH.  But, again, I can change it later.

Parts:
Stoner/Midway pistol caliber stripped upper
New Frontier Armory 16 inch 10mm carbine barrel
Wolfpack/home made 45 cal glock lower
Kaw Valley 40/10mm bolt carrier
Kaw Valley 10oz buffer
308 carbine buffer spring (I'm going to have to add a spacer or quarters in the back to better limit the travel)
Chip McCormick drop in trigger (this was too light and caused malfunctions--I have since switched to a rise armament le415 trigger).
Don't recall what brand(s) all the lower parts kit consisted of.  They were scattered throughout the spare parts box.
Magpul ctr stock.

Will be using glock and sgw mags.

I think that's about it for the time being until I get the flashider and ream it out and load up some rounds and see how they do.

I'm hoping to mainly use the gun for brush hunting whitetail and such.  I was wanting a 357 lever action, but this should be near the equivalent of that.  And not really that far off from light 41magnum either   *I hope*.

My state hunting regs limit is 10 rounds, so there's no difference in capacity from a long 357 lever action either.

Not sure how it works here, but on other forums, I hear "pics or it didn't happen" frequently.

The new gun is on the bottom nearest the camera.  The other two are my integrally suppressed 9mm and 45acp pair.

I've been reloading a while and figured there may be a few folks here who have probably worked up some loads that surpass some of the data that I'm seeing on some of the powder manufacturers sites.

I realize that many of those will cater the data for a handgun with really fast burning powders while ignoring other good powder choices for those of us who have 16" carbine barrels because there's a lot more room for a slower powder to burn, essentially maybe surpassing what a few folks would consider feasible in handguns.

I'm mainly going to be shooting 180-220 gr bullets in hopes of getting the best penetration as I can out of it.  So, I'm curious what some of you have already been able to do with it if you don't mind sharing your data?

I have longshot, #9, #2, N310, enforcer.  BE-26 and a few others.  Longshot and BE-26 has given me some really nice warm loads in 9mm and the .40 S&W so I would be surprised if they're already worked up here too. 

I've seen a lot of powder manufacturer loads for some of these powders, but I'm not against buying a different powder that I don't already have (if I can find any) if there is something out there that's better.

Good evening guys.  This is my first post here, and while I'm new to the forum, I'm not completely lost around guns or ammo either. 

But, I have a few questions that I'm wanting settled in my mind since I have no experience hunting with 10mm and I'm leaning on your experience(s).

I chose to get a 16" carbine for a few reasons, but the biggest being that I can't find a 357 lever action around here at a decent price.  I have hunted with 357 in both 6" revolver and 16" single shot, but I was wanting this 10mm carbine because it's semiauto and has the capability to hold 10 rounds (per my max hunting regs).

And I know the carbine loaded with slower burning powders can squeeze an extra few hundred fps out of the numbers that a 5" barrled handgun can do.

I would mostly be hunting whitetail and maybe some wild hog.  My shot distances are typically less than 70 yards.  And often half of that.

I live in the Appalachian mountains so a lot of hills and undergrowth and brush.   I hunt from a blind or a stand or am not against a stalk either if I have to but generally a blind or tree stand.

For times I'm not hunting but camping, we have a lot of 400-600lb bear.  Coyotes.  Big cats and starting to see and hear a few wolves too. 

There are some elk as well, but I doubt I'd even consider a pistol cal for elk.  But, I'll throw that out there anyway.

I'm wondering whether to just mainly stick with hardcast from 180-200 gr. (unless a 220 is worth the extra squeeze?)

Even for whitetail hunting, I prefer a complete pass through so if I have to track one, makes it easier.  I've tracked and lost a deer where I believe the entrance wound sealed up and bled out in the chest cavity before, and while I'm sure a fmj or soft HP will kill a deer, I'm somewhat doubtful a HP @ 60 yards would get a double lung pass through.  I may be wrong, because I'm completely new and ignorant to what it'll do and what it won't, but I have shot a few with 158 gr 357 soft point HP's that I found the bullet just under the hide on the far side so I am skeptical that the 10mm would be much different.

So, if I'm wrong, I'm interested in learning now while I'm waiting on some of the parts to build it.

Another reason for just shooting hardcast (probably powder coated hardcast to try to keep the leading down a little) would be because I could just zero my gun and stick with whatever load I am able to come up with that I like.

I'd likely just shoot jacketed 180's for plinking and playing around with.

I'll be asking more in the reloading section about that, but was curious whether to start off with round nose hardcast, wadcutter or flat point to get the best penetration.

Thanks in advance for the suggestions and advice.