The CMP has announced a partnership with Heritage Arms USA to sell M1 Garand rifles using new production forged receivers made in the USA. This is nearly 90 years since the rifle was adopted and nearly 70 years since the last ones were produced. The rifles will feature new production receivers, barrels and stocks and will contain a mix of NOS USGI and new commercial small parts.

The rifles will initially be chambered in 30-06 and 308 but other historically significant variants are in the works.

The delivery will follow the CMP 1911 pattern and the guns will have to ship to an FFL, not direct to seller like surplus USGI Garands.  They will be using a new digital order process different from both USGI Garand and CMP 1911 sales processes.

Price will be $1900.00 + $40 S&H as well as any FFL fees on the buyers end.  For comparison MSRP of a Springfield M1A is $1785.00

This is exciting news for M1 Garand enthusiasts and ensures that these classic firearms - "The greatest battle implement ever devised" - will exist for decades to come.

https://thecmp.org/introducing-the-m1-garand-by-cmp-a-new-chapter-begins/

Yesterday my oldest received her masters degree in Bio-statistics from the Duke University School of Medicine.  She is the first of my children to receive an advanced degree.  She entered her program two years ago with two children, ages 3 and 2. and she finished the program with with three.  She maintained an 3.7 GPA and completed as first author a meta analysis on multiple sclerosis.

She is an amazing woman and make me think that occasionally I get something right.  In reality I know it is mostly her mothers influence.

Hoppes or home-made Eds red for me

Quote from: 10 Round on April 24 2025 04:40:57 PM MDTHow did you keep the line so straight if I tried to do that it would look like crap

The verticals lean just a little.

The checkering file is 1/2" wide, so at 30 lpi it cuts 15 lines at a time.  I used a zip tie around the frame to set my horizontal "master" line and then used a chunk of 3/16" steel plate as a guide for cutting my "master" vertical line.  Once you have those lines set you keep one of the lines of teeth on the file in an established line and the rest line up.

And you go slow and trust the process.

There are two "options" for where the checkering stops at the top.  The "easier" route is the cut the checkering and then file down the frame above the top row and re-blend the contours into the rest of the frame/trigger guard area.  This is how my Fusion is cut, as well as my Witness.  It is the more common mass production option.

The "harder" method is to put a stop in the top horizontal line and then cut the verticals to that point. But, that leaves the last "ridge" not cut. That one gets cut with a triangle needle file at te end.  This is how Les Baer and several other of the higher "custom" shops do it.  As a glutton this is also what I did.

On glocks own website they simultaneously are listing the G29Gen5 as a new release and a discontinued model:

https://us.glock.com/en/Pistols?filter=10mmauto

https://us.glock.com/en/discontinued-models

If the discontinued page is to be believed they are dropping the G29/30 sized frames.  Too bad as it is a great gun and is a place they don't have any real competition.  I can't think of another 10mm in that size class.

It's very black.  The flash washes it out.

Of course I can't ever just leave well enough alone.

Loving my new to me Fusion Gold 9mm I couldn't help but think it would be "super" if it had the option of having a bit more "oomph".  So I ordered a Fusion 38 Super match grade barrel and a barrel bushing to I could fit a caliber conversion to the gun.

Got the barrel on Monday. I have fit one other 1911 barrel to a gun and that project is still under-way (maybe another thread on that). All the instructions I have found suggest starting by fitting the barrel hood to the slide.

It didn't start great.  The barrel only made it about 1" into the slide before it came to a stop.  Marking fluid showed it rubbing on the top of the barrel chamber about 11:00, but that seemed like the wrong place to start removing material. My google-foo didn't turn much up - either I was the remedial student or this is an uncommon problem.

While I stewed on this the first night I fit the bushing to the slide. It took minimal fitting to be nice and tight to the slide.

So, I started checking.  The barrel dropped straight into every other 1911 slide I tried:  Para, STI, Remington Rand, RIA, Ruger. It was a tiny bit tight on the STI and the Ruger passing through the muzzle end of the slide.  This made me think I had a "max" spec barrel chamber and a "min" spec slide tunnel and I was not sure which should be clearanced or where. Default thinking was clearance the barrel, but where.

I contact Fusion CS and explained my issue in detail with measurements, etc. Within 24 hours I had a response from Tyler Serva with specific directions to ignore the rubbing on the top of the barrel and to clearance the barrel foot on the opposite side of the rubbing. With that information I had the barrel passing fully into the slide in about 15 minutes.  Very impressed with the Fusion support.

Now that I had reached familiar ground I centered up the barrel using the Brownells alignment guide and clearanced the sides of the barrel hood into the slide.  I didn't count strokes but recall about 15-20 strokes on the ejection port side and about 4-5 stokes on the other side of the barrel hood. I used my jewelers file set and a wide flat jewelers file. I removed maybe .003-.004" total for a tight but smooth fit.

Clearancing the face of the barrel hood so the barrel could lock into the lugs was next. I could force the barrel into the lugs so I knew it didn't need much. I put sharpie on the face of the hood and just kissed it with the file until the sharpie was gone.  Did that three times and it was moving smoothing but tight into the lugs.  Engagement was .048" so I didn't have to fit the pads of the upper lugs at all.

I then installed the Brownells 1911 barrel holder and installed the barrel/slide to the frame to check the lower lugs.  They were perfect out of the box - The thumb safety would "just" clear and engage if I firmly closed the action.

I measured and based on the math I needed a #3 link, which is the "stock" or "spec" size.  Installed the link in the barrel, put some sharpy on the lower lugs and assembled the gun. First time in my live have had to use a bushing tool, but there was no moving it with my fingers.

The slide stop pin was similarly tight going in the first time. Cycled the slide about 30 or forty times by hand the then took the gun down.  I used the "slide off" method instead of the standard GI method to avoid rotating the bushing when it is in lockup.  The lower barrel lugs showed the perfect engagement pattern with rubbing at lock-up evenly across both lugs right on top. No contact once the action unlocks.

I then installed the barrel in the frame with the slide stop pin and examined the barrel to frame engagement.  It was textbook.

Reassembled the whole gun and checked feeding from a magazine.  It fed empty cases, dummy HP's and dummy SWC's loaded to max COAL.

This weekend I should get some range time, but all indications are I have a 1911 in 38 Super ready to go.  After confirming function with live ammo it will all come apart again for a final polish of any remaining tool marks I left behind.

Very impressed with the Fusion barrel and bushing.  Already thinking about ordering a 10mm barrel.  I have long wanted a frame ramped 10mm 1911 and this gives me that option for the cost of a barrel, plug and spring.

Never have.  For the most part I keep my G20 stock.

https://www.keltecweapons.com/firearm/rifles/sub2000-series/

Now in 10mm!

As of Friday I am no longer type 2 diabetic.  Been off the medication since January and my A1C is still "normal".  Just had to loose 60 lbs. This summer I plan to loose another 20-25 lbs to solidify things.  The doc was very clear that if I gain the weight back, I will get the diabetes back too.

Just wanted to share my good news!

My recent acquisition and subsequent range session with a Fusion Firearms 1911 with 20 LPI front strap checkering made me question my commitment of stair tread adhesive traction for grip. So I grabbed the cheapest 1911 in my safe, my Tisas GI model, and abused it with a 30 LPI checkering file.

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Overall very happy with the result. My vertical likes are ever so slightly off vertical. But the diamonds are sharp and the frame is very grippy.  It just needs a better set of grips than the plastic factory ones and it will be done.

And, I am now a bit addicted to checkering I think.  I have a 20 LPI and a 25 LPI file inbound and and making plans for my SR1911 in 10mm to get some treatment.  I also found out that there are 40 LPI files, which is probably shallow enough to use on my Para, RIA HC and Hi Power.  The thin fronstrap on those guns usually precludes checkering as it removes too much depth.

Some added pictures:

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I was afraid that might be the result with #9.  With the right bullet it can do amazing things, but it is usually too slow for 10mm.  That is clearly the case here.

I have assigned myself a task to migrate the master lists from Google Sheets where they are in the ownership of previous forum members to our planned WIKI:  wiki.10mm-auto.com.  I have already moved the pull-down master data sheet there and updated the links.

I will try to work on this over the weekend.

Top left of the browser window should be the icon for your user.  Clicking it gives a menu that includes "Unread Posts".

This leads to this URL:  https://www.10mm-auto.com/index.php?action=unread

James Reeves asking the important question: