First time checkering

[sqlbullet]

My recent acquisition and subsequent range session with a Fusion Firearms 1911 with 20 LPI front strap checkering made me question my commitment of stair tread adhesive traction for grip. So I grabbed the cheapest 1911 in my safe, my Tisas GI model, and abused it with a 30 LPI checkering file.

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Overall very happy with the result. My vertical likes are ever so slightly off vertical. But the diamonds are sharp and the frame is very grippy.  It just needs a better set of grips than the plastic factory ones and it will be done.

And, I am now a bit addicted to checkering I think.  I have a 20 LPI and a 25 LPI file inbound and and making plans for my SR1911 in 10mm to get some treatment.  I also found out that there are 40 LPI files, which is probably shallow enough to use on my Para, RIA HC and Hi Power.  The thin fronstrap on those guns usually precludes checkering as it removes too much depth.

Some added pictures:

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[Ten2six]

That is very well done! I have a 25 lpi but have not got the courage to start on any yet. I have the same Tisas that I did some trigger and sear work on so it will likely be my first victim.

[10 Round]

Try putting a tiny bit of gun oil on a rag and rubbing them it'll make the black come out better.

[sqlbullet]

It's very black.  The flash washes it out.

[10 Round]

How did you keep the line so straight if I tried to do that it would look like crap

[John A.]

That looks great.  I would've thought it would've been factory machine cut.

Great job !!

[sqlbullet]

How did you keep the line so straight if I tried to do that it would look like crap

The verticals lean just a little.

The checkering file is 1/2" wide, so at 30 lpi it cuts 15 lines at a time.  I used a zip tie around the frame to set my horizontal "master" line and then used a chunk of 3/16" steel plate as a guide for cutting my "master" vertical line.  Once you have those lines set you keep one of the lines of teeth on the file in an established line and the rest line up.

And you go slow and trust the process.

There are two "options" for where the checkering stops at the top.  The "easier" route is the cut the checkering and then file down the frame above the top row and re-blend the contours into the rest of the frame/trigger guard area.  This is how my Fusion is cut, as well as my Witness.  It is the more common mass production option.

The "harder" method is to put a stop in the top horizontal line and then cut the verticals to that point. But, that leaves the last "ridge" not cut. That one gets cut with a triangle needle file at te end.  This is how Les Baer and several other of the higher "custom" shops do it.  As a glutton this is also what I did.