Rescued Rover

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For several years I have wanted a dedicated "trail" rig.  Basic requirements I had in mind were:

• Solid axles front/rear
• 4 door with decent seating for at least 5, 7 a plus
• Decent aftermarket support
• Cheap to acquire so I have $$ left over for upgrades
• Less than 5,000 lbs curb weight wet, a recent addition to the list

I was originally inspired by the seventh gen Suburban from Dante's Peak (https://www.imcdb.org/v016893.html).  Still a great overlanding option IMHO, but very big for tight trails.  Recently the need to deal with deep snow has become a requirement and this beast is just to heavy to have good flotation, even with huge tires.

Jeep Cherokee SJ/XJ/ZJ/WJ had appeal, but once they got into my target price range, they were often abused, and not in the neglected/dirty way.  They had been beaten off-road and had the potential for serious gremlins.

Two of my kids drive fifth gen Bronco's and they are capable rigs, but due to the new Bronco, they have become very spendy even for well worn examples.

I had always disregarded anything from Land Rover.  Not really known here in the US for reliability or budget.  But, a few months ago a Discovery popped up in my classified filter at a price that caught my eye, so I dug a little deeper on the Disco 1 and 2 series.  While true they had their share of issues, those issues are now well understood and the corrective steps are well documented.  Most issues center on three areas:  An aluminum block engine that requires careful temperature monitoring, as well as 100K mile head gasket replacement, the Disco 2 has a finicky ABS system that basically does not due well with lack of use so use the hill decent control at least once a quarter, and finally the general issues with power windows/lock/central locking in an older car.  The fixes for these things are not bad price wise if you are handy with a wrench.

By the time I had finished my research, the Disco I was looking at was gone, but I started keeping an eye out for one in earnest.  About a month ago I saw an add that looked really promising.  "2001 Discovery 2 LE7.  We are a tow company and know nothing about this car.  Clean title, no keys, no catalytic converters, poor condition."  A deal was struck and for $400 I had a Discovery 2 in my driveway, along with what appeared to be most of the previous owners belongings.  Including a certified copy of his birth certificate and his parole paperwork.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/tmBo8ByjQ7NJ33ia7

First we bug bombed it.  And got a wrench on the crank snout and verified the engine was free and had compression.  Hurdle one passed and I knew I could at least part it out and be ahead.

After the fog did it's job, we cleaned out the clothes, trash, computer, walker, crutches and paperwork from the inside.  I had held out some small hope that a key would be found, but no luck.

A trip to the Land Rover dealer to show proof of ownership landed me a cut code, and a local locksmith cut me a key for $30.  No joy, the car had been re-keyed at some point in it's life.  This turned out to be a plus in the long run. When I was researching these cars I really wanted something that pre-dated the "chip must be present to start" anti-theft stuff that is common.  My google searches for "are disco 2 keys chipped" had confirmed they are not in multiple threads.  However, when researching how to get a key made after I bought the car I found I was stupid and the keys aren't chipped, but the fob is.  Luckily, it appears that when the car was re-keyed, the immobilizer was disabled so no fob is required to start the car.

A mobile locksmith wanted more than I paid for the car to make a key and fob, so I went a different route.  I pulled the drivers door handle and the ignition/steering lock assembly from the car.  Same guys that cut the key from dealer code would make a key to fit the lock for $50 if I brought in the lock.  Once I had the ignition assembly out, I could just turn the rotary switch with a screw driver, so I grabbed a battery that was on it's last leg, with the intention of only learning if the immobilizer was on.  In the "Run" position, I had no immobilizer light flashing.  I doubted the battery would turn the motor over as it only read about 11 volts, but thought it would at least chatter the starter.  It cranked, and after about 5 seconds, started.  Very loud, to be expected when the exhaust ends about 2" past the manifold, but it settled into a smooth, if loud idle.  But if gave it gas, it died.  Probably a bad sensor - CrPS, CaPS, TPS, MAFs, IACv, etc.

The power seats don't work with the key on.  Couldn't test the windows as I had removed the entire center console.  It felt like someone had dumped a bottle of syrup on it and let it soak on a hot summer day, so all that apparatus was removed for deep cleaning.  The seats could be that the seats don't work, or it could be that only the engine immobilizer is disabled but the rest of the anti-theft is still working and the BCU won't let stuff run.

When I got the door lock back I had a key that would operate the door, but it still wouldn't work in the ignition.  Unwilling to pay another $50 and deal with two keys, I took it apart and re-wafered it myself to fit the same key as the door.  The door handle is back in and the ignition is ready to go back in.

Coming work:

Head gaskets.  Car has about 170k miles on it and the suggestion is every 100K miles.  For those of you rolling your eyes, keep in mind that the beloved Toyota's recommend a timing belt every 90 K miles, and guys who have done both say the effort is similar, but the Toyota requires a cadre of specialized tools.  Also, when doing the head gaskets I can inspect the cylinder sleeves and coolant passages and determine if I need to start saving for pinned cylinders, top hat cylinders or maybe the holy grail of a 5.3 LS swap.  Pinned cylinders aren't too bad on the $$ scale, but top hat or an LS swap is a couple grand minimum.  Finally, I can replace all the sensors, radiator and cooling system on the way out.

Swap wheels/tires (and lift).  22" polished wheels aren't my thing and are terrible for offroad.  I have a lead on some 16" Rover wheels, or I will go with 16" steel wheels.  Should be under $300 for the wheels either way.  Short term some used A/T tires will be fine.  Long term I want 33's or 35's, which will require a 3"-4" lift and probably some trimming.  A set of tracks is also under investigation (see Definition of success below)

Center Diff Lock.  Land Rover, in a moment of corporate stupidity, dispensed with the center diff lock transfer case in favor of their ABS driven traction control system for the Discovery 2.  Except they didn't.  They still had a large inventory of transfer cases with the center diff lock, so they used them.  But didn't include the shift assemble to activate the center diff lock.  They didn't run out of CDL equipped transfer cases until sometime in the 2002 model year, and brought it back with shifter for the 2004 model year.  I have a line on a CDL capable range shift assembly from a disco 1 and will swap it in.

Front bumper and winch.  I want a front bumper with a hitch receiver.  I will mount my winch to a receiver plate so I can use it front or rear as needed.  Looks like I will have to fabricate this myself as the options are very few, are spendy and still wouldn't be a direct fit.  This task will include running winch power to the rear too.

Misc trim.  I have identified about a half dozen odd's and ends trim items that have broken plastic.  Some of them I will just omit.  Some I will replace with OEM.  Some I will fab something to replace.

Wiring.  At some point I am sure I am going to want to bypass lots of the BCU controls of the car.  What that will entail is to be determined.  In my mind I will be moving seat controls to the seat versus the center console, window controls to the door, etc.  Then all I need is power to the switch/relay and they work.  But I probably won't take these steps until/unless something is NOT working.

Definition of success.  Our cabin was completely accessible during the 2020-2021 winter.  It is 3/4 mile from the highway to the door on the un-maintained road.  Once last year we had to park at the 1/2 mile point and walk the rest of the way.  It appears last year was an anomaly.  This year snow came early and is 3'-4' deep most places.  Options to get in are snow shoes, snowmobiles, or a properly built and self recovery capable snow-wheeling machine.  The goal is to turn the Discovery into the latter.  We really want to enjoy the cabin year round, and to be honest, winter is the most fun time to be up there.  But great grandma isn't going to make it in on snow-shoes, and snow-mobiles are iffy for her as she gets older.  I am dealing with a kidney stone right now and I can't imagine how screwed I would have been if it had hit when I was there on snow-shoes.  So, success is a vehicle that can get in or out without issue.  If tires can work, great as we can drive one vehicle.  If we have to get tracks, we will probably use Dominator XL tracks and will trailer the Disco down there, park at the highway and then drive the Disco in.

Edit - And catalytic converters

[The_Shadow]

Dealing with all of those items had to be almost as painful as the kidney stone...
Good luck with the restoration.  

[38-40]

You know you could just put a snow plow on it when you get it running.

[sqlbullet]

Most of the folks that own property in the area use the common part of the road, about 1/2 mile, for snow mobiles.  I wanna be a good neighbor to them.  I talked to a few of them about plowing and they were not supportive.

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Progress!

I topped off the coolant and let it idle up to temp.  My Ultra-gauge says it stabilized at 167?F, which is fine for my needs.  Next I pulled off the idle air-control valve and cleaned it out good.  That was the issue preventing the engine from running faster than idle.  She revved right up after I put the cleaned IAC valve back in.

So far no coolant leaks and no milk shake oil.  So, the heads gaskets and cylinder sleeves look like they are intact.  Engine should be sound.

Next up is to install a new Y pipe with catalytic converters and O2 sensors.  And get some wheels and tires installed.  Then I can drive it around some and see what else is an issue.

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Simple task for the past weekend...just remove what's left of the down pipes from the manifold.  Yes, I know heat cycled fasteners tend to both corrode and gall in such a way that can make them difficult to remove.

But I was in no way prepared for what I found.

The manifold bolts looked to be in very good shape, and I briefly thought about just pulling the manifolds and then dealing with the manifold to down-pipe fasteners on the bench.  But I decided not to make work for myself, so starting on the passenger side I reached down to feel the nuts and get an idea on size.  I immediately knew there was an issue but I couldn't quantify it without looking.

Looking did not make it better.

At some point the connection between the down pipe flange and the 2-1 connector had cracked or perhaps completely failed.  That alone is fine.  What was less fine is that the repair appeared to have been carried out by a three-year-old with a 6011 rod and way to much amperage.  Without removing the downpipe.  Or the fasteners to the manifold.  So, all three nuts/bolts were now welded to the flange, and were mutilated such that a socket or wrench could not be put on the nut/bolt head.

Pulled the header.  At that point that was really the only option.  15 minutes with a cold chisel and the two nuts were off.  Another 5 minutes with a cutoff wheel and the bolt head was gone.  I will have to drill out the remaining bolt.  There is plenty of stick out but the bolt is frozen in place.  One of the studs is also buggered up with weld puddle.  The threads where I split the nut look fine.

On to the second one.  Two nuts came right off, but the bolt snapped.  I was patient.  I had been soaking it every other day for a week with Kroil, and I tried it both cold and hot, with and without impact.  After 10 minutes I decided I was done.  Applied a cheater and twisted it off.  I figured I was going to have to set up the mill to drill one manifold anyway, so why not two.

So, less than ideal results, but I have the manifolds out and have a new manifold to down pipe stud kit with gaskets on the way.  New downpipes, stud kit and O2 sensors all arrive this week, so with a little luck next Saturday I will get it back together and have the check engine light.

[Graybeard]

I have to ask, what are you using to trailer this beast to your cabin? 5-7 people + stuff seems like a lot.

Best of luck on your project! After my wife finally lost her love for her old Jaguar S, I haven't had my head under the hood of a UK produced vehicle. Can't say I miss it at all.

[sqlbullet]

I have a 2011 chevy suburban and an 18' flat bed "car hauler".

The Suburban's max tow weight is 7500 lbs and the Rover+Trailer will put it at about 6K, maybe a touch over.  We may also look into an option in a nearby town to park/secure the trailer/rover during the winter so we only have to two it the last 10 miles or so.  Or possibly talk to a property owner that owns the land right where the turn-off is about putting up a shed we can share.

[Graybeard]

Gotcha, that makes sense. I was picturing something like a Suburban or Expedition. Storing it closer to the destination is a good idea, as well.

We have a cabin in northern michigan. My routine, in the winter, is park by the road, hike to the pole barn, and use our 4wd tractor w/ a bucket on it to clear the driveway. Fortunately that's only about 80yds. Sounds like you have a much greater distance to cover. Probably similar snow cover though. I'm usually dealing with 2-3 feet.

[sqlbullet]

The distance is 3/4 mile.  And while the snow depth is similar, the snow consistency is not.  I grew up in Indiana and my sister lives in Michigan.  The snow there is heavier/denser than in the high Utah mountains where it is a very light powder that doesn't stick to itself.  Can't make a snowball with it.

I have a tractor with a loader at our cabin too and the original plan was exactly what you outline, though over a longer distance.  But, the kubota just slides around on the dry powdery snow, even with chains. 

Also, the first 1/2 mile is state property used by snow mobilers.  If I start plowing that out there will be trouble.

[Graybeard]

I understand your situation. Hopefully one of your neighbors with road frontage will understand the extra effort you are putting in to accommodate their needs and allow you accessible storage.